DIY Liquid Laundry Detergent Recipe (No Soap)
Learn how to make a DIY liquid laundry detergent without soap. This easy recipe works well in hard water, cleans effectively, and avoids heavy fragrances.

I used to make soap-based laundry “detergents,” and they can work… especially if you have soft water.
But over time, I realized they aren’t the best option for most people.
If you have hard water, soap can react with minerals like calcium and magnesium, leaving a residue on your clothes. That buildup can trap dirt, make fabrics feel stiff, and leave everything looking a bit dull over time.
That’s why I switched to making a simple surfactant-based detergent instead.
It cleans more effectively, works well in any water type, and is still inexpensive and easy to make at home.
If working with surfactants sounds intimidating, don’t worry. This is one of those recipes that’s actually very simple once you try it, and it gives you much more control over what goes into your laundry.
If you prefer to see the process, here’s the video:
The problem with soap-based laundry detergents
Soap doesn’t just clean. It also reacts with minerals in hard water.
When it comes into contact with calcium and magnesium, it forms a residue known as soap scum. Over time, that residue can build up on fabrics, trapping dirt and making clothes look dull or feel less clean.
This isn’t always noticeable right away, especially in soft water. But in areas with hard water, like where we live in Spain, the difference becomes much more obvious over time.
That’s one of the main reasons I moved away from soap-based laundry detergents and started using surfactant-based formulas instead.
Some people try “stripping” their clothes to remove buildup, but it’s usually easier to avoid the problem in the first place.
Why soap can be a problem in laundry
Soap reacts with minerals in hard water, forming a residue (soap scum). Over time, that buildup can trap dirt, make fabrics feel stiff, and leave clothes looking dull instead of clean.
But that doesn’t mean soap is completely off the table. There are still times when it can be useful.


What I use now (and when I still use soap)
I used to make and use soap-based laundry detergents, and they can work… especially if you have soft water.
Over time, though, I started noticing the downsides, especially in hard water. That’s why I switched to surfactant-based detergents for regular washing.
That said, I still make laundry soap and use it for specific things like stain removal or pre-treating heavily soiled areas.
Why make your own Laundry detergent?
One of the biggest advantages of making your own detergent is the cost. Most store-bought detergents, especially “natural” ones, are surprisingly expensive for what they are. They’re mostly water with a small amount of surfactants, which are relatively inexpensive when you buy them yourself.
Making your own also gives you full control over the ingredients. Many commercial detergents use strong synthetic fragrances that can be overwhelming or irritating. I’m quite sensitive to those scents, so I usually keep my detergent unscented.
If I do want to add fragrance, I prefer to scent my laundry separately using wool dryer balls or sachets. It gives a lighter, more natural scent without being overpowering.
Another benefit is that you can tailor the recipe to your needs, avoiding any ingredients that don’t work well for you or your family.
Ingredients
This detergent is made with a simple blend of surfactants, along with water, salt, and a preservative.

The main surfactants I use are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), coco betaine, and decyl glucoside. Together, they give a good balance of cleaning power and mildness.
Salt is used to thicken the mixture.
To keep the detergent stable over time, you can either add a preservative or adjust the pH. I’ll explain both options below so you can choose what works best for you.
About sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a surfactant that’s very effective at removing grease and dirt, which is exactly what we want in a laundry detergent.
It does have a bit of a negative reputation, especially in personal care products. It can be irritating on the skin for some people, which is why I don’t usually use it in things like shampoos or toothpaste.
You may have also seen claims that SLS is linked to cancer. From what I’ve found, there isn’t solid evidence supporting that. Reviews of the available research have not shown SLS to be carcinogenic, and much of the concern online seems to come from misunderstandings or misinterpretations of how it behaves. If you’re interested in looking into it further, you can read a published review on SLS safety and toxicity and also see how Lisa Bronner from Dr. Bronner’s addresses common concerns about SLS.
That said, laundry detergent is different from personal care products. It isn’t a leave-on product and gets rinsed out completely, so using a stronger surfactant here makes sense. In this context, SLS works very well and helps get clothes thoroughly clean.
While it isn’t the most “natural” ingredient, it is biodegradable and widely used in cleaning products. I tend to prioritize safety and effectiveness over whether something is completely natural.
If you prefer to avoid SLS, you can experiment with other surfactants. Just keep in mind that gentler surfactants usually need to be used in higher amounts or combined carefully to get similar cleaning power. If you’re new to working with surfactants, you can learn more about how they work and how to combine them in my guide to natural surfactants.
This recipe uses a blend of surfactants to balance cleaning power with mildness, making it effective without being overly harsh.
About “harsh” ingredients like SLS
SLS is often criticized in personal care products because it can be irritating on the skin for some people. In laundry detergent, though, it’s used differently. It helps remove grease and dirt effectively and gets rinsed out completely, so it doesn’t stay on fabrics.
How to make a DIY liquid laundry detergent
Making this detergent is actually very simple once you have your ingredients ready.
Add the surfactants to your container. The easiest way to do this is to place the container on your scale, tare it, and add each ingredient one at a time, resetting the scale between additions.

Once the surfactants are in, add most of the distilled water and gently stir or swirl to combine everything, trying not to create too much foam.
In a separate small container, dissolve the salt in a portion of the remaining water. Once fully dissolved, add it to the detergent mixture and stir gently. As it incorporates, the mixture will begin to thicken.
Salt is often used to thicken liquid detergents, but it doesn’t just affect the texture. It also changes how the surfactants behave.
A small amount can help improve structure and cleaning, but adding too much can actually reduce both thickness and effectiveness. That’s why it’s best to add salt slowly, mixing well between additions, and stop once you reach the consistency you like.
If you’ve ever had a detergent suddenly thin out again after adding more salt, this is why.

At this point, you can choose how you want to preserve your detergent. You can either add a broad-spectrum preservative or raise the pH of the mixture using a small amount of lye solution. See the notes below for more details on both options.
Do you need a preservative?
Because this recipe contains water, you do need a way to keep it from growing bacteria or mold over time. There are two main ways to do that, and I’ve used both.
Option 1: Use a preservative
You can add a broad-spectrum preservative that works within the pH range of your detergent. This is the simplest option, especially if you prefer not to work with lye. When I first started making my own laundry detergent, this was the method I used!
That said, laundry detergent is usually made in fairly large batches, so using a preservative can get expensive depending on what you choose and where you buy it.
When I first started making this detergent, I used Sharomix 705 because I was able to buy it in large quantities fairly inexpensively here in Europe. It worked well for this type of formula.
One important thing to keep in mind is pH. Before adjusting the pH, this detergent usually falls around a slightly acidic range (mine was around pH 5, but that can vary depending on your ingredients and suppliers). You’ll want to make sure that whatever preservative you choose is effective within the pH range of your final product.
Option 2: Raise the pH
Another option is to raise the pH of the detergent to make it less hospitable to microbial growth.
I actually started doing this after looking at an older bottle of Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds. At the time, the ingredient list included potassium hydroxide. It made me wonder if they were using it to help preserve their detergent, and since I already had it at home from making soap, I decided to give it a try in my recipe.
By raising the pH (generally above around 9), you create an environment where many microbes can’t grow. This is why traditional liquid soaps don’t usually need a preservative.
This is the method I’ve been using for years now. It’s simple, cost-effective, and works well, especially if you already make soap and have lye on hand.
If you choose this method, be sure to handle lye carefully and follow basic safety precautions.
Here’s what that process looks like:

Which option should you choose?
- If you’re not comfortable working with lye, using a preservative is the easier and more straightforward option.
- If you are familiar with working with lye, raising the pH can be a very practical and inexpensive alternative.
Customizing your homemade laundry detergent
This recipe is pretty flexible, but changing the ingredients can affect how it turns out.
The blend of surfactants I use gives a good balance of cleaning power and mildness. You can experiment with other combinations, but keep in mind that not all surfactants behave the same way. Some clean more gently, while others are stronger and more effective at removing oils and dirt.
If you want to avoid SLS, you’ll probably need to use more surfactants or combine a few different ones to get similar results.
Thickening
You can also adjust the thickness of the detergent. I use salt to thicken it, which works well with this blend of surfactants.
As you add salt, the mixture will usually get thicker at first, but only up to a point. After that, adding more can actually start to thin it out again, so it’s best to add it gradually and stop once you reach the consistency you like.
While small amounts of salt can affect how the surfactants behave, in this recipe it’s mainly being used to adjust thickness rather than improve cleaning.
It also doesn’t need to be very thick to work well. A more liquid version will clean just as effectively, so thickness is mostly about how it feels and dispenses.
If you change the surfactants, keep in mind that not all combinations will thicken with salt, so you may need a different thickener or simply leave it more liquid.
Fragrance
You can leave the detergent unscented or add a small amount of fragrance if you prefer. I usually leave mine unscented and add scent separately, like a couple of drops of essential oil on wool dryer balls or using sachets in the closet. It gives a lighter, more natural scent without being overpowering.
If you do add essential oils or fragrance oils to the detergent, it’s best to use small amounts.
FAQs
Yes. This detergent is low-sudsing compared to traditional soap-based recipes, so it works well in HE machines. Just avoid using too much.
I usually use about 2–3 tablespoons per load, depending on how dirty the clothes are.
If your detergent is more liquid, you may need a little more, but try not to overdo it. More isn’t necessarily better.
Yes, you can, but the final result may be a bit different.
SLES is generally milder and may not clean quite as strongly, so you may need to adjust the amounts or combine it with other surfactants to get similar results.
You can, but you’ll need to dissolve it well before using it. Powdered versions can be a bit trickier to work with and may take more time to fully incorporate.
Technically, yes, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
Using a blend of surfactants helps balance cleaning and makes the detergent easier to work with. On its own, SLS can be a bit harsh and less well-rounded.
You do need some way to keep the detergent from growing bacteria or mold over time.
You can either:
use a preservative
or raise the pH (what I usually do now)
If you don’t want to work with lye, a preservative is the easier option.
Possibly, but you’ll need to make sure it works within the pH range of your detergent.
Some common options like sodium benzoate or natural extracts (like rosemary extract) aren’t always effective on their own in this type of formula, so you’ll want to research carefully before substituting.
Not all surfactant combinations thicken with salt.
If you’ve changed the surfactants, the salt may not work the same way. In that case, you can either leave it more liquid or try a different thickener.
Yes, but you’ll need to experiment.
You’ll likely need to use more surfactants or combine different ones to get it to clean as well. Gentler surfactants usually need a bit more help to be effective.
Yes, that’s one of the main advantages of this type of detergent.
Unlike soap-based detergents, it won’t form buildup with minerals in hard water.
You can, but you may want to reduce the amount slightly or experiment with a milder surfactant blend if you’re washing very delicate fabrics.
It depends on where you live, but many of these can be found from cosmetic ingredient suppliers or online shops that sell soapmaking or DIY cosmetic ingredients.

DIY Liquid Laundry Detergent (Non-Soap Recipe)
Materials
- 740 g distilled water
- 150 g sodium lauryl sulfate
- 50 g coco betaine
- 30 g decyl glucoside
- 20 g salt
- preservative or lye solution
Instructions
- Add the surfactants to your container, weighing each one directly into it and taring the scale between additions.
- Add most of the distilled water and gently stir or swirl to combine, trying not to create too much foam.
- In a separate container, dissolve the salt in a portion of the remaining water. Once fully dissolved, add it to the detergent and stir gently. The mixture will begin to thicken as it incorporates.
- At this point, choose how you want to preserve your detergent. You can either add a broad-spectrum preservative or raise the pH using a small amount of lye solution. (See notes below for more details.)
Option 1: Use a preservative
- Add a broad-spectrum preservative that works within the pH range of your detergent. This recipe is usually around pH 5 before any adjustments (though that can vary), so choose a preservative that works in that range and use it at the recommended rate, typically around 0.5–1% (about 5–10 g for this batch). Mix well, and your detergent is ready to use.
Option 2: Raise the pH (no preservative)
- Instead of using a preservative, you can raise the pH of the detergent to help prevent microbial growth. Add a small amount of lye solution (sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), mixing well and checking the pH as you go, until you reach a pH above around 9. You don’t need much, so it’s best to add it slowly and adjust as needed. Once you’ve reached the desired pH, your detergent is ready to use.
- Once everything is fully combined, your detergent is ready to use.
- Use around 2–3 tablespoons per load, adjusting as needed.
Notes
Now that you’ve made your own laundry detergent, why not make your own natural fabric softener and wool dryer balls too?
Originally published November 29, 2018. Updated April 2026 with clearer explanations, additional details, and a full video tutorial.




I haven’t made this yet, but I saw this recipe around 2019 when searching for DIY laundry detergents. I had ZERO knowledge of ANY of the surfactants at the time and forgot all about it. BUT, now I do and have been blessed by The Lord to learn and making things like crazy the last few years. Now I’m ready to try now that I understand. Thank you for this!
Hi Tracy,
I’m wondering whether the lower PH (compared to Sal Suds), effects the cleaning efficacy of this?
I’m looking to make an all purpose cleaner, for laundry, dishes, general household etc.
Secondly, for some reason in Australia, it’s much easier for me to find SLES than SLS. I know there is the debate about it potentially having carcinogenic by-products from the processing. Do you see that being a risk for my intended application?
Many thanks,
Alexander
Hi Alexander,
I’m not too hung up on using either in cleansing products. What I don’t like is the overuse of either surfactant in cosmetics. That’s where I think you could have issues with the harshness of these surfactants. Use what you can find.
I actually generally bring up the pH of mine these days so I don’t have to use so much preservative. I find it much easier/cheaper to adjust the pH up vs. add the preservative.
That said, I’ve made it both ways, and haven’t noticed a difference in the efficacy.
Hi Tracy.
Does it matter if I use liquid or powdered Coco Betaine? Would the measurement still be the same?
Thanks
Margaret
If you use powdered, you will add less and use more water. You could make the liquid coco betaine by dissolving it in water (30% solution). Don’t worry too much about it being exact as the recipe is very forgiving. Just make sure to preserve according to what you make. (By weight percentage if using a preservative…or raise the pH accordingly.)
Hi Tracy, if I were to add essential oils for fragrance, how much would you suggest adding? Also, would I need to add extra preservative to offset the oils? Thanks!
Hi Rachel,
Because this isn’t a cosmetic, you can really go pretty much as high as you like when adding the oils. (Normally for cosmetics, you wouldn’t want to go over 2% to avoid causing skin sensitivity issues- with some oils, you’d want to use even less.) That said, it could get quite pricey if you go higher than that. If you keep the oil amount low, it won’t be enough to throw off the preservative. They need to be somewhat precise, but work over a range and 2-3% won’t be enough to throw it off. You can always use your preservative at the higher end of the range of recommended dosage by weight. If you don’t want to add the EO to the detergent and use a dryer, you can also add a few drops to wool dryer balls and throw them in the dryer wit the clothes to scent them.
Hi Tracy, can I use water softener salt instead of table salt or epsom salt?
Thank you for all the information and recipe!
If the composition is the same (NaCl), it should be fine. (I think some are made with Kcl, and I’m not sure if that would work.)
The salt is added to thicken the mixture. I can’t remember the chemical reaction behind it, but it only works with certain surfactants. In this case, it works really well. You’ll want to break it up if it’s in pellets so that it dissolves well.
Gracias, Tracy! Me encantan tus recetas y como explicas las razones para usar uno u otro ingrediente. Será muy interesante ver cómo resulta la adición de KHO. Estoy atenta. Un saludo!
Gracias, Liana!
Normalmente uso NaOH para conservarlo hoy en día. Va muy bien.
Lo subo a un pH de 10, más o menos. (Aunque a veces me pasó y va a 11.)
Llevo años así y nunca me da problemas.
Good Morning Tracy,
Yesterday, I was going to buy more supplies to make some of your wonderful laundry detergent. I was trying to buy some sodium lauryl sulphate. The price of 25g was very very high. The amount not even enough for your recipe and it would be far cheaper to buy detergent off the shelf.
Will it always be like this now or is there a cheaper source out there somewhere?
Anticipating your response.
Hi Dianna,
I’m sorry to hear that. Here in Spain, I’m able to find 5 liters for 25 euros and that lasts me for years as you dilute it so much when you make the recipe. I’d hope you could find a better place to get it more inexpensively. It shouldn’t be that pricey!
Hi Tracy! Thrilled to find this recipe, but need your input on preservative options as I have no access to Sharomix where I live in Asia. Two options I can find are Phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate. Are you able to comment on whether one of these would work or steer me in the direction of something common that would? My goal is to make something fragrance free (which is becoming impossible to find where I live!), so all-natural comes second to just finding something that will work.
Honestly, I stopped using preservative in mine and now just raise the pH to above 9-10 instead using a mixture of NaCl. (Lye solution)
I add it in slowly and try to mix it as best I can and test the pH with test strips to see if I need more.
Hi Tracy ,
could this be used as a dish-washing Liquid as well or do you have a recipe
thank you
Kathy
I’ve used it for hand washing dishes and it works well. I tried it in the dishwasher and it appeared to work at first, but then left a film on dishes. I have made a powder for the dishwasher using sodium perborate, but I can’t remember what I mixed it with. It worked really well, though. I was thinking of experimenting with it again soon.
Hi,
thanks for this recipe, are the indicated weights of ingredients corrected by the concentration of SLS, decylglucoside and cocobetaine in the raw materials? Or are these the weights you used of those ingredients as they come from the bottle?
I have solid SLS and not in a solution, so it matters a lot, since the ingredient you used in this recipe contains around 30% of solid SLS.
looking forward to your answers.
Hi Lucia,
These are the weights of the liquid surfactants as they come from the bottle. So, yeah, you’d have to dilute the solid SLS to use the amounts in the recipe. The one I used has a listed active matter of 26.5 – 28.5%. So, yeah, around 30%. It’s not a big deal if it’s not super accurate. 😉
Hi Tracy, thanks a lot.
i just wonder what that does to the effective amount of surfantant in the detergent. I want to go with your recipe as it uses less, especially if you have tested it and it is effective at normal dosing volumes. Do you use 2-3 tbsp? what is the water hardness there? Here is it around 7, so quite hard.
I really appreciate your recipe and reactions, recipes with surfactants are difficult to find.
Hi Lucia,
I probably use around that much or a little less. To be honest, I don’t measure and just pour in a small amount and it seems to work quite well. It’s really hard to know howmuch things would change if the amount were increased or decreased, though.
Our water is quite hard too, but we cheated and installed a water softener.
Hi, I tried the recipe and it turned out really good. I adjusted with NaCl and it had a good viscosity, but after a few days the solution became more viscous and turn white. Why can that happen?
Hi Roberto,
Hmmm that’s interesting. I have had the viscosity increase a bit with time, but I think it was more because of how I add the salt in granular form. I think it reaches its full viscosity once the salt is completely dissolved and well mixed into the rest. I’ve never had it turn white, though.