Trying to avoid SLS and other harsh surfactants in your cosmetics? There are many mild, natural surfactants available. Learn about the different types of natural surfactants, with a list of my favorites.
What is a surfactant?
There are many types of surfactants and they are used for many different purposes, but they all share one quality: they help increase the wetting properties of a liquid. Surfactants can be found almost everywhere. You can find them in everything from detergents and shampoos to toothpaste and even conditioners.
Surfactant definition:
(A surfactant,) also called surface-active agent, (is a ) substance such as a detergent that, when added to a liquid, reduces its surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties. (Encyclopaedia Britannica)
Surfactant function
Some surfactants are emulsifiers, others are foaming agents (and some may actually do the opposite of those functions). Some act as detergents, while others act as insecticides or fungicides. Some help with solubilizing (small amounts of oils into water, for example) and others help increase viscosity.
How do surfactants work?
Surfactants affect the surface tension of liquids to increase wetting.
Why would you want to increase wetting?
Normally, when you spray water on a surface like a window, rather than spread evenly over the surface, the water will bead up. That’s because of the surface tension of the water. The molecules of the water come together in a stable configuration and are attracted to each other. When you are trying to clean that window, though, that beading isn’t helping you. You want the water to spread evenly over the surface to better clean it. You also want something that can grab onto the grease and dirt on whatever surface you are trying to clean.
Micelles in surfactants
Surfactants affect the surface tension that is making the water bead up rather than spread out. They have a water-loving head and an fat (oil) loving tail. They come together in structures called micelles.
I already explained a bit about how the micelles in surfactants work in my micellar water recipe, but for those who haven’t read that post, let me give you a quick, simplified explanation. The water-loving heads of the micelles bond with the water while the oil-loving tails on the inside of the micelles bond with the grease and grime. That pulls the grease and grime into the center of the micelles out of contact with the water, making them easier to rinse away.
You’ll also find that hot water helps clean better because the hot water helps melt the fats which makes it easier for them to be brought into the micelles.
Types of surfactants
There are four main types of surfactants, each behaving somewhat differently, and some with completely different functions. The detergent-like surfactants tend to be the anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants. Some cationic surfactants are used as emulsifiers and are great for hair conditioners. (I use BTMS, a cationic surfactant, in my hair conditioner recipe.)
These are classified based on the charge of the polar head of the surfactant which can have a positive charge (cationic), a negative charge (anionic), or no charge (non-inonic). Amphoteric surfactants have both a cationic and anionic part attached to the same molecule.
- Anionic – Anionic surfactants are the most commonly used surfactants because they tend to provide the best cleaning power and the most foam. You’ve probably heard people talking about one of the most commonly used anionic surfactants, SLS (Sodium lauryl sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate). It can be found in everything from shampoos and shower gels to even toothpaste. I’ve also shown you how to make soap (many types by now!), another anionic surfactant.
Anionic surfactants can be harsher on the skin, which is why they are often combined with other types of milder surfactants. - Nonionic – The second most commonly used surfactants are nonionic surfactants. They don’t ionize in water or aqueous solutions. Nonionic surfactants are gentler when cleaning. Because they don’t carry a charge, they are the most compatible with other types of surfactants. Recently, sugar-based nonionic surfactants have been developed to offer a safer, non-toxic alternative to some of the more harsh surfactants on the market up until now.
- Cationic – Cationic surfactants don’t generally give foaming like the other types of surfactants. They are often used in hair care products (mainly conditioners and anti-static products because they don’t provide the foaming for use in shampoos) because their positive charge is attracted to the negative charge in hair. This makes it difficult to completely wash them from your hair, so some stays behind to help reduce friction between hairs which, in turn, reduces the amount of electrostatic charge in hair. This helps make hair more manageable and helps prevent damage.
Cationic surfactants aren’t usually compatible with anionic surfactants! - Amphoteric – Amphoteric surfactants can carry either a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of your product. Despite that, they are still compatible with all of the other types of surfactants. These tend to be very mild surfactants which is why they are usually combined with other surfactants. While amphoteric surfactants may not give a lot of foam on their own, they can help boost the foam of the other surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants are often combined with anionic surfactants to reduce their harshness and help stabilize their foam.
Natural surfactants list:
Natural surfactants can be derived from many types of plants. Common sources are coconut or palm, but they can also be derived from other types of fruits and vegetables.
There are many natural surfactants on the market today, and with increased consumer demand, I imagine that many more will be available in time. I have tried many of them, but today I’ll focus on some of my favorites. I like these surfactants because they are gentle, they tend to be easier to find, and they work well together. You can use these in everything from gentle shampoos to shower gels, facial cleanser, and baby washes.
Choosing your surfactants
Keep in mind that many of these surfactants are not palm free, so you’ll want to source them from places that allow for sustainable methods of obtaining their materials. I buy surfactants that have been certified sustainable by RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) standards.
Another thing to keep in mind is that these surfactants can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. The names are polymeric and aren’t referring to an exact structure. Some places will use different plants as the origin of elaborating each surfactant, and the way each surfactant cleans, solubilizes, etc. can vary depending on where you buy it from. I’ll be describing these surfactants based on my suppliers, but you’ll want to check on the specifications of the surfactant you are buying if it’s important to you to know what plants have been used to derive them, the pH, the concentration, etc. Use this list as a general guideline!
Along those lines, while mine are listed as ECOCERT approved, that may also be dependent upon the manufacturer of each surfactant.
I’ll be updating this list and adding more surfactants as I use them and learn more about them. For now, though, this should give you a good starting point to understanding what we are going to be working with.
Coco Glucoside
Coco Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant that is obtained from coconut oil and fruit sugars, but it can also be obtained from either potato or corn. It is a very gentle, foamy cleanser and is completely biodegradable. You can use it in products that you want to have an ECOCERT certification. It has an alkaline pH (around 12) which makes it self-preserving as is, but you will probably have to adjust the final pH of products using it to pull it into a range more suitable for your skin or hair (and you’ll need to add a preservative).
Decyl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside is very similar to coco glucoside (non-ionic and ECOCERT compatible), but it has a shorter chain length. It creates less foam (its foam is less stable) than coco glucoside but it does add more viscosity to a product. It is derived from coconut oil and glucose and is completely biodegradable. It can be used in all sorts of shampoos, gels, baby products, etc.
Lauryl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside is very similar to the other 2 glucosides I’ve mentioned. It has a longer chain length and more viscosity. It takes longer to foam than the other two, but it also has the most stable foam. While it is also a mild cleanser, it isn’t as mild as the other 2 alkyl polyglucosides.
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a gentle anionic surfactant that can be used in natural products (ECOCERT). It is a great alternative to SLS for a milder, more natural shampoo (or body wash, etc.). It has larger molecules than some of the other surfactants (like SLS) making it unable to penetrate and irritate the skin in the same way. It cleans and provides foam in products made for people with sensitive skin.
Coco Betaine
Coco betaine is a coconut based amphoteric surfactant. It’s mild and can help boost foam and increase the viscosity of products made with it. It’s very mild and provides for gentle cleansing. It’s completely biodegradable and has a pH around 6-8. It is also ECOCERT compatible so it can be used in the elaboration of “natural” and “organic” type products.
Sodium Coco Sulfate
Sodium coco sulfate is an anionic surfactant that is ECOCERT and BDIH friendly. It has a pH of 10-11 and is derived from coconut oil. It is a water-soluble surfactant that is sold in solid form. It’s usually used in non-soap shampoo bars and/or bar cleaners (syndet bars).
Plantapon® SF
Plantapon SF is a mix of vegetable-based surfactants (coconut, corn, and palm based) that can be used in a variety of gentle cleansing products like shampoos, shower gels, and facial cleansers. It includes sodium cocoamphoacetate, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and glycerin. It has a pH between 6.5 and 7.5.
Because this is a mix of surfactants, it can be a good choice for those who are just delving into working with surfactants. You can easily mix up formulations without needing to buy a lot of raw materials or doing a lot of work. (I’ll work on getting up some recipes that use this as soon as I can.)
Completely natural surfactants
While not as effective as the other more processed surfactants derived from natural sources, those looking for a completely natural alternative may be interested in studying some of these natural surfactants. These plant based cleansers all have natural saponins that are a type of non-ionic surfactant. They can be used alone or combined with the other surfactants for a more effective final product.
Soap Nuts (Soap Berries, Aritha)
The fruits taken from the sapindus trees/shrubs from the lychee family have saponins which are natural non-ionic surfactants. They are usually called either soap nuts or soap berries, and they clean without creating much foam.
You can either throw a cloth bag of them in with your laundry to naturally wash your clothes, or you can steep them in warm water to extract a liquid that can be used for cleaning. Make just enough for what you’ll need and you can freeze the rest.
Liquid Yucca Extract
Liquid yucca extract is a natural non-ionic surfactant that comes from the yucca plant, a desert plant that has natural saponins of its own. While you can add it to your homemade shampoos, yucca extract is also used in gardening to help get nutrients to the roots of other plants by washing away concentrated salts that build up.
Shikakai powder
Shikakai powder is another plant with natural saponins which are natural non-ionic surfactants. It is normally used in hair care as a very natural “shampoo.” It naturally has a low pH which makes it ideal for hair care. It’s said to be good for all hair types, especially those that are prone to breakage and damage. Like with the other natural surfactants, you can either combine it with other surfactants or use it on its own. To use it on its own, you make a paste by mixing the powder with warm water and running it through your wet hair once it the paste has cooled. You then leave it to act for 10-15 minutes before rinsing it out. It may slightly darken hair.
Soapwort
Soapwort is another plant that has been used for many years as a soap alternative. It can be used to clean the skin, wash your hair, or even as a laundry soap. It’s especially good for delicate fabrics. To use soapwort, you need to make an infusion of the soapwort in water, and then you can use the resulting liquid as a liquid soap alternative.
Nina Vincent
Hello Tracy,
Thank you for being so informative. Have you used liquid yucca extract in a cleanser formulation? If so, what are you the pros and cons to using that? Also, what percentage would you use?
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Nina,
I bought it and think I did add it to one of my formulations, but, to be honest, I don’t remember much about it.
I mostly bought it to see what it was like to be able to offer an alternative to those people looking for something on the really “natural” side. It’s probably not as strong and doesn’t provide as much foam/lather as some of the others, but does have the pro of being more “natural” if that’s important to you.
Jerry
Would you list a few surfactants which are not harmful to the body if ingested ?
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Jerry,
That’s tricky. I’m not sure I’d recommend ingesting surfactants.
There are some that are commonly used in toothpaste, though. (Even Sodium Laureth Sulfate is commonly used, but natural toothpastes choose different ones.)
I don’t think a small amount of most of them is going to hurt you, but again, I haven’t read anything official about that particular topic.
Lisa G
Great article! I am getting ready to make some bubble bath scoops for a friend who has cancer. The recipe calls for sodium lauryl sulfate, but I want to use a suitable nontoxic substitute. I was thinking of either the Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate or the Coco betaine, for foaming properties. What are your thoughts? Also, can you recommend reliable sources for these products?
Thank you!!
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Was the SLS in liquid form?
You should be able to use either of those, but they won’t provide the same lather as SLS which is much stronger and provides more lather. I think Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate does provide more lather as it’s also an anionic surfactant like SLS. It’s probably a better sub than coco betaine.
Chiara
Hi, may i ask if these coconut/coconut oil based surfactants actually contain oil? I have a certain item I want to use a cleanser containing coconut surfactants with but cleaning instructions specifically say not to use detergents containing lanolin or other oils… so I would just like to make sure before I go ahead & clean it.
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Chiara,
Hmmmm, that seems like strange instructions to me. Generally, surfactants don’t include oils because the oils would interfere with the cleansing action of the surfactants. So, no, surfactants themselves shouldn’t have added oils.
Perhaps they are referring to not using cleansers that have a combination of surfactants and oils? (Like a facial cleansing product meant to be more conditioning to the face as it cleanses?)
Tania A
Hi! I’m trying to make my own shampoo but i only could get decyl glucoside and coco betaine. Is it safe to ix them together? Will it be an efective shampoo? Thanks in advance!
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Tania,
That’s fine. You can definitely experiment with that combination. If you find it effective or not will really depend on you and your hair. 😉
Danielle
I’m so glad I found your website. It has been extremely helpful as I try to navigate through making products that work for my family. I have found the hard way that soap based cleaners don’t work well for us as we have extremely hard water. I have several things we need to avoid and am wondering if I can pick you’re brain or if there is a specific course you could recommend I sign up for? We need to avoid all coconut based surfactants (they cause my skin to burn), corn based and corn derived ingredients (oldest son is extremely sensitive to even the smallest residual amount) and flax. I’m currently using soap nuts on my hair but they are causing split ends, I also need to develop a laundry soap, fabric softener, hair conditioner, extremely strong hold hair gel, and dish soap. I thought BTMS looked promising but it appears to have a corn derivative in it and the company never responded to my email. I’m totally okay with experimenting but have limited funds so I would like to minimize how much I purchase but don’t use. Thanks so much for all the time you put into your work, it is truly amazing and one of the only ones that is understandable.
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Danielle,
Wow, that is difficult.
I have asked in a group of cosmetic formulators if they know of options that don’t have coconut, corn, or flax, but haven’t heard back from them.
For dish soap, I use my homemade liquid soaps for washing by hand. You can make a liquid soap with only olive oil if you are concerned with coconut oil. For the dishwasher, I’ve been using a mix that includes sodium perborate. (I need to try to find the recipe I mixed up so I can post a recipe on the blog.)
While you could make a conditioner with an olive based emulsifier like Olivem, they don’t have the same slip of a cationic emulsifier. Cationic emulsifiers give conditioners their “conditioning” feel. There are some other than BTMS like Varisoft EQ 65. Behentrimonium Chloride is also a conditioning type ingredient. I’m not sure what’s in Varisoft. I’d have to look it up.
I personally don’t use fabric softener, but you can use vinegar or glycerin or use wool balls.
For hair gel, I usually use xanthan gum. It works for me. I’m not sure if it would be considered strong hold, but it does form a cast.
If I hear anything back about the surfactants, I’ll let you know.
Danielle
Thank you so much for your reply! I will definitely look into the other emulsifiers.
We can’t use white vinegar, do you know if apple cider vinegar would have the same effect? I mostly need it for static cling as my oldest will only wear fleece pants. Glycerin might work if I can find some that is 100% corn and coconut free.
Unfortunately Xanthan gum is typically corn derived as well. I have been able to find out I need a film forming polymer to get the hold I need for my hair. Now if I can just figure that out.
Melannie
Hi Tracy! I love knowledge it’s been so helpful!!!
I’ll like to know what do you think about making a shampoo bar made out of shikakai powder, soapwort, and use beeswax to make the hard consistency??? Plus you know oils or butters and vitamins and essential oils, my mother is allergic to coconut so I can’t use any other surfactant either are all from coconut or chemical. Please I need your help
Thank you!
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Melannie,
That’s an interesting question and predicament.
I can try to ask about natural non-coconut surfactants in the forum for one of the classes I took.
I bought shikakai powder, but have to admit that I still haven’t gotten around to trying it out. I guess I’m just so happy with my homemade shampoos that it sounds a bit too messy for me. 😉
My concern would be that the powders would become embedded in the wax and that they wouldn’t be able to serve their purpose. I’d also think that the wax would end up building up on hair rather than helping to clean it.
I know of people who wash with just the powders themselves- or that wash with clays like rhassoul clay.
I’d think either would be more effective than adding them to a wax bar…
That said, yes, I imagine they are messy to use!
Pyewacket
I, too have a coconut allergy that first became noticeable about 20 years ago and has gotten worse with time. I did not realize until just recently what was causing all the problems, and testing didn’t help because coconut is NOT tested for (and allergists generally don’t believe you should you think to suggest it yourself, because all doctors know that “rare” and “uncommon” mean “nonexistent delusion in your head”).
I also doubt that coconut allergy is nearly as “rare” as the medical community thinks it to be. I suspect it has become far less rare as Western manufacturers have gradually made coconut derivative ubiquitous in cleansing and beauty products. At any rate, the only coconut free shampoos I’ve been able to find are crazy expensive (like $22 for 8 oz). “Recipes” online purporting to be coconut free aren’t. One site listed 5 different home made shampoos that they claimed didn’t work because castile bad or baking soda bad etc, and then they list 5 recipes all of which are exactly the same as the recipes they just dissed. Lots of “home made” shampoos contain primarily Dr. Bronner’s Castile soap which firstly isn’t Castile – because that is olive oil – and secondly contain a bunch of coconut derivatives. And with a pH of 11, I’m not putting that in my hair.
There are a lot of people out there who would be extremely grateful for coconut free hair product recipes. Soapnuts is awful if you get it in your eyes, and I’m old and tired and having to mix this stuff up fresh every time has become wearing. Plus it’s pretty harsh. HELP!
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hello!
Wow, I’m sorry to hear that! I can imagine it would make life difficult as coconut is in just about everything. Surfactants are almost always coconut or palm based, and that sort of thing doesn’t make most ingredient lists.
I never got a response to the question I asked in my group about non-coconut based surfactants, but now, after reading your comment, I’ll try again. (I’ll wait for the days that I can ask the tutors as I’ll more likely get a response there.)
What I will say is that I’ve been using home confinement as a time for experimentation. One of the things I’ve experimented with is a “no-poo” way of washing my hair.
I’ve been only cleaning my hair with a mixture of shikakai and amla powders for the last few weeks. No shampoo, no conditioners, no styling agents (as I haven’t left the house anyway) 😉 – but my hair actually looks and feels great. I will say the process of “washing” hair is a bit of a pain. You make a paste, rub it into your hair, and then leave it there to work for about half an hour. We have a sauna, so I’ve used that while it’s in my hair.
You have to work to get it all out of your hair. (I use a comb while rinsing to make sure I’m getting it all out.)
So, it’s not exactly that nice feel of shampooing your hair. It feels gritty and smells kind of weird, and you have to be careful not to get it in your eyes or it can burn them, but…
Overall, it’s not as bad as I thought it would be. My hair looks and feels great, actually.
If I couldn’t find anything else, I think I could definitely keep using this.
That said, I will try to find other solutions that aren’t quite so messy. 😉
Leigh Pearson
Hi Tracy,
I found you article very informative, thank you.
I was wondering if you could recommend a safe surfactant powder that my wife and I might use in homemade laundry detergent.
thank you
Leigh
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Leigh,
Some of the solid surfactants I’ve used are SCI, SLSA, and sodium coco sulfate. You could try with some of those. I haven’t tried making a powdered detergent yet, but could try it. I’d imagine it would be very concentrated, so you may want to look into some sort of additive filler that could bulk up the detergent a bit. (Probably not super necessary, but it may seem weird to use a super tiny bit of powder in a load.
Nivethitha
Hello Tracy ,
Highly information post.
I have read capryl glycoside is a natural derived non ionic surfactant , could you pls share your insight and experience using the ingredient.
Thanks
Nivethitha
Tracy Ariza
Hi Nivethitha,
Thank you!
For now, I haven’t tried using it yet. I’m just a girl at home who likes to experiment, so I started working with the most accessible ones here where I live. As more become available, and as I experiment more, I’ll add what I find about the new ones I try. I’m also open to hearing what other people have to say and adding the new information that way.
Jim Clark
Tracy, here’s a question for you. I will admit I may be duplicating things because I did not read all the responses you gave above. However, would any of these types of surfactants be able to find their way into industrial applications? This is fine for the Personal Care end but there are still a lot of issues with surfactants in the industrial markets such as coatings. Would any of these products be viable for use in water based of even some solvent based coatings? Just wondering if a green product like these could be used in Latex Paint etc. as a surfactant.
Tracy Ariza
Hi Jim,
Well, to be honest, I have no idea of what the demands are for a surfactant in something like paint. Most of what I figure out about each surfactant is still by experimentation as there just isn’t as much information out there as I would like. ?
Sophie
Hi Tracy,
I too have a coconut allergy and have recently found a surfactant that’s is made from olive oil. My shampoo is lovely but doesn’t foam well. But on the plus side it’s like a 2 in 1 as it leaves me hair super soft! I got it from naturally thinking in the uk. Also I found glycerin made from rapeseed instead of coconut from the soap kitchen! So managed to make a completely coconut free shampoo although I have to use a fair amount to wash my hair as it doesn’t spread well x
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Sophie,
Well, it’s good to hear you found something. I’m sorry to hear it isn’t completely ideal, though.
I can imagine how frustrating that has to be. I never really realized how much coconut is used until I heard from people with coconut allergies.
I will definitely be on the lookout for alternatives and will update as I learn more.
Thanks for your comment. Hopefully, it will help somebody else!
Bella
Hello Tracy,
Thank you for your very informative articles.
Since I’m a complete novice, I was wondering if you could advise me on what type of natural surfactant would be suitable for kitchen spray cleaner I’d like to make.
Additionally, how would i know how much to add? Are there any tried and true recipes for natural spray cleaners you could direct me to?
I look forward to your response.
With thanks
Bella
Tracy Ariza, DDS
Hi Bella,
It really depends on how strong you want it to be (and what you are cleaning).
I generally make large batches on my homemade laundry detergent, and use that for all-purpose cleaning around the house.
If you don’t want to use SLS, though, you could sub it with another surfactant like maybe Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate or sodium coco sulfate, etc.