A beginner’s guide to natural surfactants for DIY skincare and haircare
Learn how to use natural surfactants in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers. A simple, beginner-friendly guide.
Trying to avoid SLS or other harsh cleansers in your homemade cosmetics? Natural surfactants can be a gentler option for making shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, and other rinse-off products.
The tricky part is that there are quite a few options, and they don’t all behave the same way. Some are better cleansers, some are milder, and some help improve the feel and foam of your final product.
What is a surfactant?
A surfactant, or surface-active agent, is an ingredient that changes the way liquids behave at a surface. In simple terms, it helps water spread out instead of beading up.
Surfactants also help water interact with things it normally wouldn’t mix with, like oil, grease, and dirt. That’s what makes them so useful in cleansing products.
You’ll find surfactants in all sorts of everyday products, including shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, toothpaste, and even household cleaners.
If you want a more technical definition:
(A surfactant,) also called surface-active agent, (is a ) substance such as a detergent that, when added to a liquid, reduces its surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties. (Encyclopaedia Britannica)
What do surfactants do (and how do they work)?
Surfactants are used for a variety of purposes, but in most DIY cosmetics, their main role is cleansing.
They help water spread more easily and allow it to interact with oils, grease, and dirt so they can be rinsed away. Depending on the type, surfactants can also help create foam, stabilize mixtures, or improve the texture of a product.
Some surfactants act as emulsifiers, helping oil and water stay mixed. Others act as solubilizers, allowing small amounts of oil (like essential oils or fragrances) to disperse in water-based products. Some increase viscosity, making a product thicker, while others make it thinner.
Why does that matter?
If you’ve ever sprayed water onto a surface like glass, you’ve probably noticed that it beads up instead of spreading out. That’s because of surface tension, which causes water molecules to stick to each other.
For cleaning, though, that’s not very helpful. You want the water to spread out and come into contact with as much of the surface as possible. You also want it to be able to grab onto oils and dirt.
That’s where surfactants come in.
How surfactants clean (micelles)
Surfactants have two parts:
- a water-loving (hydrophilic) head
- an oil-loving (lipophilic) tail
When added to water, they organize themselves into structures called micelles.
Inside a micelle, the oil-loving tails point inward, trapping oils and dirt, while the water-loving heads stay on the outside, interacting with the water. This allows grease and grime to be lifted away and rinsed off with water.
This is why surfactants can remove oily dirt with water alone. The oil gets trapped inside the micelle, while the outside interacts with the water, so everything can be rinsed away easily.
Hot water can improve cleaning because it helps melt fats and oils, making them easier for the surfactants to trap inside the micelles.
Types of surfactants
There are four main types of surfactants. They’re classified based on the charge of their water-loving (polar) head.
Some have a negative charge (anionic), some have a positive charge (cationic), some have no charge (nonionic), and some can switch depending on the pH (amphoteric).
Each type behaves a bit differently, which is why most formulas use a combination rather than just one surfactant.
Anionic surfactants (cleansing and foam)
Anionic surfactants are the most commonly used in cleansing products because they provide strong cleaning power and plenty of foam.
You’ve probably heard of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), which are common examples. Soap is also an anionic surfactant.
Because they clean so well, they can sometimes feel drying or irritating when used alone. For that reason, they’re often combined with milder surfactants to create a more balanced, gentler product.
I do use SLS in things like my laundry detergent recipe, where stronger cleansing is helpful, but I don’t use it in my skincare or haircare recipes.
Nonionic surfactants (mild and easy to combine)
Nonionic surfactants don’t carry a charge, which means they work well with other types of surfactants.
They’re generally milder than anionic surfactants, but they also tend to have less cleansing power on their own. Instead, they help make formulas gentler and can make a product feel nicer to use.
Many sugar-based surfactants (like glucosides) fall into this category and are popular in more “natural” formulations.
Cationic surfactants (conditioning, not cleansing)
Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge and behave very differently from the others.
They aren’t typically used for cleansing. Instead, they’re used in hair conditioners and anti-static products. Because hair has a slightly negative charge, these surfactants are attracted to it and cling to the surface.
This helps smooth the hair, reduce friction, and make it easier to comb. It’s also why a small amount stays behind after rinsing.
Cationic surfactants are not usually compatible with anionic surfactants, which is why conditioners and shampoos are used separately.
Amphoteric surfactants (very mild and flexible)
Amphoteric surfactants can act as either positively or negatively charged depending on the pH of the product.
They’re very mild and are often used to make formulas gentler. On their own, they don’t usually provide strong cleansing or a lot of foam, but they work really well when combined with other surfactants.
They’re especially useful when paired with anionic surfactants because they can help reduce irritation and make the foam feel nicer and more stable.
Natural surfactants and how to choose them
There are quite a few natural surfactants available today, and new ones seem to appear all the time. I’ve tried many of them, but here I’m focusing on some of my favorites, ones that are gentle, easy to find, and work well in simple formulations.
You can use these in everything from shampoos and body washes to facial cleansers and baby products.
Most cleansers use a combination of surfactants rather than just one. Anionic surfactants are often used when you need stronger cleansing or more foam, while amphoteric surfactants help make formulas feel gentler and improve the lather. Nonionic surfactants help keep everything mild and balanced.
Some formulas use all three, while others skip anionic surfactants entirely for a gentler result. If a cleanser isn’t removing enough oil or buildup, you can increase the total surfactant concentration or add a mild anionic surfactant for a bit more cleansing power.
Surfactants can also vary quite a bit from one supplier to another. The same name doesn’t always mean the exact same composition, and things like pH, concentration, and even the plant source can differ slightly. Because of that, it’s a good idea to check the details from your supplier, especially if you’re trying to avoid certain ingredients or know your skin reacts to specific things.
A quick note on “natural” surfactants
Some surfactants are sold as “natural” or ECOCERT-compatible, but that can vary depending on the manufacturer. If that’s something you care about, it’s worth double-checking with your supplier.
You can also look for surfactants sourced from certified sustainable palm (RSPO) or other plant sources.
Natural surfactants list:
Below are some of the surfactants I use most often. They’re all relatively easy to find and work well in simple formulations.
Coco Glucoside
Coco glucoside is a nonionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and sugars (often from corn or fruit). It’s a very gentle cleanser and is completely biodegradable, which makes it popular in more “natural” formulations.
It produces a decent amount of foam and works well in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers, especially when you want something mild. On its own, it can feel a bit thin, so it’s often combined with other surfactants to improve the texture and overall feel of a formula.
It has a relatively high pH (around 11–12), so you’ll usually need to lower the final pH of your product to bring it into a better range for your skin or hair. You’ll also need to add a preservative, since the final product won’t be self-preserving once diluted and adjusted.
If you’re new to working with pH, you can read more about how and why to adjust the pH of cosmetics here.
Decyl Glucoside
Decyl glucoside is another nonionic surfactant that’s very similar to coco glucoside, but with a shorter chain length.
It’s also gentle and biodegradable, and works well in shampoos, body washes, and baby products. Compared to coco glucoside, it tends to produce less stable foam, but it can help add a bit more viscosity to a formula.
Like other glucosides, it’s usually used alongside other surfactants to create a more balanced cleanser.
Lauryl Glucoside
Lauryl glucoside is another member of the same family, but with a longer chain length.
It tends to be thicker and produces more stable foam, although it can take longer to foam up. It’s still considered a mild surfactant, but slightly less gentle than the shorter-chain glucosides.
Depending on the supplier, it can be quite thick or even paste-like, so you may need to dilute it before using it in a formula.
Coco Betaine
Coco betaine is an amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil. It’s very mild and is often used to make formulas gentler.
On its own, it doesn’t provide strong cleansing, but it works really well when combined with other surfactants. It helps boost and stabilize foam and can make a formula feel less harsh on the skin and hair.
Because of that, it’s commonly added to shampoos and body washes to balance stronger surfactants or to improve the feel of milder ones.
It’s biodegradable, works over a fairly wide pH range (around 5–7 in finished products), and is often used in formulations designed for sensitive skin.
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a very mild anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and amino acids. It’s often used in facial cleansers and toothpaste because it cleans gently without being too harsh.
It doesn’t produce as much foam as stronger surfactants, but it still helps disperse oils and debris so they can be rinsed away.
Because of its mildness, it’s a good choice for products that come into contact with more sensitive areas, like the face or mouth.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is a mild anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil. It’s usually sold as a fine powder, flakes, or small pellets and is commonly used in solid cleansers like shampoo bars and facial cleansing bars.
It produces a creamy, stable foam and feels much milder on the skin than many other anionic surfactants, which is why it’s so popular in “syndet” bars.
Because it’s solid and not very soluble on its own, it usually needs to be melted or worked into a formulation with other ingredients. It’s often combined with other surfactants to create a more balanced final product.
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is a mild anionic surfactant that’s often used when you want a bit more cleansing without being overly harsh.
Compared to stronger anionic surfactants like SLS, it has a larger molecular structure, which makes it less likely to penetrate the skin and cause irritation. Because of that, it’s often used in shampoos and body washes designed for sensitive skin.
It provides good cleansing and a nice amount of foam, so it can be helpful in formulas that need a little extra cleaning power or better lather.
That said, it’s not always necessary. In gentler formulas, you can still get good results using nonionic and amphoteric surfactants instead.
Some people have concerns about how this surfactant is produced, since trace amounts of byproducts like 1,4-dioxane can form during manufacturing. The EWG overview of Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate goes into more detail if you want to look into it further.
It’s still commonly used in milder formulations, but it’s something to be aware of so you can decide what you’re comfortable using.
Sodium Coco Sulfate
Sodium coco sulfate is an anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil. It’s usually sold in solid form and is commonly used in shampoo bars and other solid cleansers (syndet bars).
It provides strong cleansing and good foam, so it can be helpful when you need something that removes oil or buildup more effectively. Because of that, it’s often used in formulations meant to feel more clarifying.
It has a relatively high pH (around 10–11), so finished products are usually adjusted to bring the pH down to a better range for the skin or hair.
Even though it’s derived from coconut oil, it behaves similarly to other sulfate-based surfactants and can feel more drying than some of the milder options.
Plantapon® SF
Plantapon® SF is a blend of several plant-based surfactants, including sodium cocoamphoacetate, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate.
Because it already combines different types of surfactants, it’s a convenient option if you’re just starting out. You can use it to make gentle shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers without having to buy and balance multiple individual surfactants.
It has a pH that’s already fairly close to skin-friendly levels (around 6.5–7.5), which can make formulation a bit easier.
Completely natural surfactants
If you’re looking for less processed options, there are also plant-based ingredients that contain natural saponins, which act as mild, nonionic surfactants.
These can be a good option if you want something very simple or closer to traditional methods. That said, they don’t usually clean as effectively or produce as much foam as the more refined surfactants listed above.
Because of that, they’re sometimes used on their own for very gentle cleansing, or combined with other surfactants to improve the final result.
These are quite different from the surfactants above, so it helps to think of them as a separate category.
Soap Nuts (Soap Berries, Aritha)
Soap nuts are the dried fruits of trees in the Sapindus family. They naturally contain saponins, which makes them useful as a gentle cleanser.
They don’t produce a lot of foam, but they can still be used for things like laundry or very mild hair and skin cleansing.
You can use them whole in a cloth bag for laundry, or steep them in warm water to make a liquid that can be used right away. The liquid doesn’t keep well, so it’s best to make small batches or freeze what you won’t use.
Liquid Yucca Extract
Liquid yucca extract is another plant-based ingredient that contains natural saponins.
It can be added to gentle cleansing products, but it’s also commonly used in gardening to help water and nutrients spread more evenly through the soil.
Shikakai powder
Shikakai is a plant-based powder traditionally used for hair care. It contains natural saponins and has a naturally low pH, which works well for hair.
It’s usually made into a paste with water and applied to the hair, then left on briefly before rinsing out.
It doesn’t lather much, but it can be a good option if you’re looking for a very gentle, traditional-style cleanser.
Soapwort
Soapwort is another plant that has been used for centuries as a natural cleanser.
It’s typically used as an infusion, which can then be used for washing skin, hair, or even delicate fabrics.
Final thoughts
There isn’t one “right” surfactant or combination to use. It depends on what you’re trying to make and how you want it to feel.
If you’re just starting out, keep things simple. Choose a couple of mild surfactants, try them out, and adjust as needed based on how your skin or hair responds.
Originally published on September 17, 2018. This post has been updated and expanded to reflect what I’ve learned since then.
Hello Tracy,
Thank you for being so informative. Have you used liquid yucca extract in a cleanser formulation? If so, what are you the pros and cons to using that? Also, what percentage would you use?
Hi Nina,
I bought it and think I did add it to one of my formulations, but, to be honest, I don’t remember much about it.
I mostly bought it to see what it was like to be able to offer an alternative to those people looking for something on the really “natural” side. It’s probably not as strong and doesn’t provide as much foam/lather as some of the others, but does have the pro of being more “natural” if that’s important to you.
Would you list a few surfactants which are not harmful to the body if ingested ?
Hi Jerry,
That’s tricky. I’m not sure I’d recommend ingesting surfactants.
There are some that are commonly used in toothpaste, though. (Even Sodium Laureth Sulfate is commonly used, but natural toothpastes choose different ones.)
I don’t think a small amount of most of them is going to hurt you, but again, I haven’t read anything official about that particular topic.
Great article! I am getting ready to make some bubble bath scoops for a friend who has cancer. The recipe calls for sodium lauryl sulfate, but I want to use a suitable nontoxic substitute. I was thinking of either the Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate or the Coco betaine, for foaming properties. What are your thoughts? Also, can you recommend reliable sources for these products?
Thank you!!
Was the SLS in liquid form?
You should be able to use either of those, but they won’t provide the same lather as SLS which is much stronger and provides more lather. I think Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate does provide more lather as it’s also an anionic surfactant like SLS. It’s probably a better sub than coco betaine.
Hi, may i ask if these coconut/coconut oil based surfactants actually contain oil? I have a certain item I want to use a cleanser containing coconut surfactants with but cleaning instructions specifically say not to use detergents containing lanolin or other oils… so I would just like to make sure before I go ahead & clean it.
Hi Chiara,
Hmmmm, that seems like strange instructions to me. Generally, surfactants don’t include oils because the oils would interfere with the cleansing action of the surfactants. So, no, surfactants themselves shouldn’t have added oils.
Perhaps they are referring to not using cleansers that have a combination of surfactants and oils? (Like a facial cleansing product meant to be more conditioning to the face as it cleanses?)
Hi! I’m trying to make my own shampoo but i only could get decyl glucoside and coco betaine. Is it safe to ix them together? Will it be an efective shampoo? Thanks in advance!
Hi Tania,
That’s fine. You can definitely experiment with that combination. If you find it effective or not will really depend on you and your hair. 😉
I’m so glad I found your website. It has been extremely helpful as I try to navigate through making products that work for my family. I have found the hard way that soap based cleaners don’t work well for us as we have extremely hard water. I have several things we need to avoid and am wondering if I can pick you’re brain or if there is a specific course you could recommend I sign up for? We need to avoid all coconut based surfactants (they cause my skin to burn), corn based and corn derived ingredients (oldest son is extremely sensitive to even the smallest residual amount) and flax. I’m currently using soap nuts on my hair but they are causing split ends, I also need to develop a laundry soap, fabric softener, hair conditioner, extremely strong hold hair gel, and dish soap. I thought BTMS looked promising but it appears to have a corn derivative in it and the company never responded to my email. I’m totally okay with experimenting but have limited funds so I would like to minimize how much I purchase but don’t use. Thanks so much for all the time you put into your work, it is truly amazing and one of the only ones that is understandable.
Hi Danielle,
Wow, that is difficult.
I have asked in a group of cosmetic formulators if they know of options that don’t have coconut, corn, or flax, but haven’t heard back from them.
For dish soap, I use my homemade liquid soaps for washing by hand. You can make a liquid soap with only olive oil if you are concerned with coconut oil. For the dishwasher, I’ve been using a mix that includes sodium perborate. (I need to try to find the recipe I mixed up so I can post a recipe on the blog.)
While you could make a conditioner with an olive based emulsifier like Olivem, they don’t have the same slip of a cationic emulsifier. Cationic emulsifiers give conditioners their “conditioning” feel. There are some other than BTMS like Varisoft EQ 65. Behentrimonium Chloride is also a conditioning type ingredient. I’m not sure what’s in Varisoft. I’d have to look it up.
I personally don’t use fabric softener, but you can use vinegar or glycerin or use wool balls.
For hair gel, I usually use xanthan gum. It works for me. I’m not sure if it would be considered strong hold, but it does form a cast.
If I hear anything back about the surfactants, I’ll let you know.
Thank you so much for your reply! I will definitely look into the other emulsifiers.
We can’t use white vinegar, do you know if apple cider vinegar would have the same effect? I mostly need it for static cling as my oldest will only wear fleece pants. Glycerin might work if I can find some that is 100% corn and coconut free.
Unfortunately Xanthan gum is typically corn derived as well. I have been able to find out I need a film forming polymer to get the hold I need for my hair. Now if I can just figure that out.
Hi Tracy! I love knowledge it’s been so helpful!!!
I’ll like to know what do you think about making a shampoo bar made out of shikakai powder, soapwort, and use beeswax to make the hard consistency??? Plus you know oils or butters and vitamins and essential oils, my mother is allergic to coconut so I can’t use any other surfactant either are all from coconut or chemical. Please I need your help
Thank you!
Hi Melannie,
That’s an interesting question and predicament.
I can try to ask about natural non-coconut surfactants in the forum for one of the classes I took.
I bought shikakai powder, but have to admit that I still haven’t gotten around to trying it out. I guess I’m just so happy with my homemade shampoos that it sounds a bit too messy for me. 😉
My concern would be that the powders would become embedded in the wax and that they wouldn’t be able to serve their purpose. I’d also think that the wax would end up building up on hair rather than helping to clean it.
I know of people who wash with just the powders themselves- or that wash with clays like rhassoul clay.
I’d think either would be more effective than adding them to a wax bar…
That said, yes, I imagine they are messy to use!
I, too have a coconut allergy that first became noticeable about 20 years ago and has gotten worse with time. I did not realize until just recently what was causing all the problems, and testing didn’t help because coconut is NOT tested for (and allergists generally don’t believe you should you think to suggest it yourself, because all doctors know that “rare” and “uncommon” mean “nonexistent delusion in your head”).
I also doubt that coconut allergy is nearly as “rare” as the medical community thinks it to be. I suspect it has become far less rare as Western manufacturers have gradually made coconut derivative ubiquitous in cleansing and beauty products. At any rate, the only coconut free shampoos I’ve been able to find are crazy expensive (like $22 for 8 oz). “Recipes” online purporting to be coconut free aren’t. One site listed 5 different home made shampoos that they claimed didn’t work because castile bad or baking soda bad etc, and then they list 5 recipes all of which are exactly the same as the recipes they just dissed. Lots of “home made” shampoos contain primarily Dr. Bronner’s Castile soap which firstly isn’t Castile – because that is olive oil – and secondly contain a bunch of coconut derivatives. And with a pH of 11, I’m not putting that in my hair.
There are a lot of people out there who would be extremely grateful for coconut free hair product recipes. Soapnuts is awful if you get it in your eyes, and I’m old and tired and having to mix this stuff up fresh every time has become wearing. Plus it’s pretty harsh. HELP!
Hello!
Wow, I’m sorry to hear that! I can imagine it would make life difficult as coconut is in just about everything. Surfactants are almost always coconut or palm based, and that sort of thing doesn’t make most ingredient lists.
I never got a response to the question I asked in my group about non-coconut based surfactants, but now, after reading your comment, I’ll try again. (I’ll wait for the days that I can ask the tutors as I’ll more likely get a response there.)
What I will say is that I’ve been using home confinement as a time for experimentation. One of the things I’ve experimented with is a “no-poo” way of washing my hair.
I’ve been only cleaning my hair with a mixture of shikakai and amla powders for the last few weeks. No shampoo, no conditioners, no styling agents (as I haven’t left the house anyway) 😉 – but my hair actually looks and feels great. I will say the process of “washing” hair is a bit of a pain. You make a paste, rub it into your hair, and then leave it there to work for about half an hour. We have a sauna, so I’ve used that while it’s in my hair.
You have to work to get it all out of your hair. (I use a comb while rinsing to make sure I’m getting it all out.)
So, it’s not exactly that nice feel of shampooing your hair. It feels gritty and smells kind of weird, and you have to be careful not to get it in your eyes or it can burn them, but…
Overall, it’s not as bad as I thought it would be. My hair looks and feels great, actually.
If I couldn’t find anything else, I think I could definitely keep using this.
That said, I will try to find other solutions that aren’t quite so messy. 😉
Hi Tracy,
I found you article very informative, thank you.
I was wondering if you could recommend a safe surfactant powder that my wife and I might use in homemade laundry detergent.
thank you
Leigh
Hi Leigh,
Some of the solid surfactants I’ve used are SCI, SLSA, and sodium coco sulfate. You could try with some of those. I haven’t tried making a powdered detergent yet, but could try it. I’d imagine it would be very concentrated, so you may want to look into some sort of additive filler that could bulk up the detergent a bit. (Probably not super necessary, but it may seem weird to use a super tiny bit of powder in a load.
Hello Tracy ,
Highly information post.
I have read capryl glycoside is a natural derived non ionic surfactant , could you pls share your insight and experience using the ingredient.
Thanks
Nivethitha
Hi Nivethitha,
Thank you!
For now, I haven’t tried using it yet. I’m just a girl at home who likes to experiment, so I started working with the most accessible ones here where I live. As more become available, and as I experiment more, I’ll add what I find about the new ones I try. I’m also open to hearing what other people have to say and adding the new information that way.
Tracy, here’s a question for you. I will admit I may be duplicating things because I did not read all the responses you gave above. However, would any of these types of surfactants be able to find their way into industrial applications? This is fine for the Personal Care end but there are still a lot of issues with surfactants in the industrial markets such as coatings. Would any of these products be viable for use in water based of even some solvent based coatings? Just wondering if a green product like these could be used in Latex Paint etc. as a surfactant.
Hi Jim,
Well, to be honest, I have no idea of what the demands are for a surfactant in something like paint. Most of what I figure out about each surfactant is still by experimentation as there just isn’t as much information out there as I would like. ?
Hi Tracy,
I too have a coconut allergy and have recently found a surfactant that’s is made from olive oil. My shampoo is lovely but doesn’t foam well. But on the plus side it’s like a 2 in 1 as it leaves me hair super soft! I got it from naturally thinking in the uk. Also I found glycerin made from rapeseed instead of coconut from the soap kitchen! So managed to make a completely coconut free shampoo although I have to use a fair amount to wash my hair as it doesn’t spread well x
Hi Sophie,
Well, it’s good to hear you found something. I’m sorry to hear it isn’t completely ideal, though.
I can imagine how frustrating that has to be. I never really realized how much coconut is used until I heard from people with coconut allergies.
I will definitely be on the lookout for alternatives and will update as I learn more.
Thanks for your comment. Hopefully, it will help somebody else!
Hello Tracy,
Thank you for your very informative articles.
Since I’m a complete novice, I was wondering if you could advise me on what type of natural surfactant would be suitable for kitchen spray cleaner I’d like to make.
Additionally, how would i know how much to add? Are there any tried and true recipes for natural spray cleaners you could direct me to?
I look forward to your response.
With thanks
Bella
Hi Bella,
It really depends on how strong you want it to be (and what you are cleaning).
I generally make large batches on my homemade laundry detergent, and use that for all-purpose cleaning around the house.
If you don’t want to use SLS, though, you could sub it with another surfactant like maybe Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate or sodium coco sulfate, etc.