Trying to avoid SLS and other harsh surfactants in your cosmetics? There are many mild, natural surfactants available. Learn about the different types of natural surfactants, with a list of my favorites.
What is a surfactant?
There are many types of surfactants and they are used for many different purposes, but they all share one quality: they help increase the wetting properties of a liquid. Surfactants can be found almost everywhere. You can find them in everything from detergents and shampoos to toothpaste and even conditioners.
Surfactant definition:
(A surfactant,) also called surface-active agent, (is a ) substance such as a detergent that, when added to a liquid, reduces its surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties. (Encyclopaedia Britannica)
Surfactant function
Some surfactants are emulsifiers, others are foaming agents (and some may actually do the opposite of those functions). Some act as detergents, while others act as insecticides or fungicides. Some help with solubilizing (small amounts of oils into water, for example) and others help increase viscosity.
How do surfactants work?
Surfactants affect the surface tension of liquids to increase wetting.
Why would you want to increase wetting?
Normally, when you spray water on a surface like a window, rather than spread evenly over the surface, the water will bead up. That’s because of the surface tension of the water. The molecules of the water come together in a stable configuration and are attracted to each other. When you are trying to clean that window, though, that beading isn’t helping you. You want the water to spread evenly over the surface to better clean it. You also want something that can grab onto the grease and dirt on whatever surface you are trying to clean.
Micelles in surfactants
Surfactants affect the surface tension that is making the water bead up rather than spread out. They have a water-loving head and an fat (oil) loving tail. They come together in structures called micelles.
I already explained a bit about how the micelles in surfactants work in my micellar water recipe, but for those who haven’t read that post, let me give you a quick, simplified explanation. The water-loving heads of the micelles bond with the water while the oil-loving tails on the inside of the micelles bond with the grease and grime. That pulls the grease and grime into the center of the micelles out of contact with the water, making them easier to rinse away.
You’ll also find that hot water helps clean better because the hot water helps melt the fats which makes it easier for them to be brought into the micelles.
Types of surfactants
There are four main types of surfactants, each behaving somewhat differently, and some with completely different functions. The detergent-like surfactants tend to be the anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants. Some cationic surfactants are used as emulsifiers and are great for hair conditioners. (I use BTMS, a cationic surfactant, in my hair conditioner recipe.)
These are classified based on the charge of the polar head of the surfactant which can have a positive charge (cationic), a negative charge (anionic), or no charge (non-inonic). Amphoteric surfactants have both a cationic and anionic part attached to the same molecule.
- Anionic – Anionic surfactants are the most commonly used surfactants because they tend to provide the best cleaning power and the most foam. You’ve probably heard people talking about one of the most commonly used anionic surfactants, SLS (Sodium lauryl sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate). It can be found in everything from shampoos and shower gels to even toothpaste. I’ve also shown you how to make soap (many types by now!), another anionic surfactant.
Anionic surfactants can be harsher on the skin, which is why they are often combined with other types of milder surfactants. - Nonionic – The second most commonly used surfactants are nonionic surfactants. They don’t ionize in water or aqueous solutions. Nonionic surfactants are gentler when cleaning. Because they don’t carry a charge, they are the most compatible with other types of surfactants. Recently, sugar-based nonionic surfactants have been developed to offer a safer, non-toxic alternative to some of the more harsh surfactants on the market up until now.
- Cationic – Cationic surfactants don’t generally give foaming like the other types of surfactants. They are often used in hair care products (mainly conditioners and anti-static products because they don’t provide the foaming for use in shampoos) because their positive charge is attracted to the negative charge in hair. This makes it difficult to completely wash them from your hair, so some stays behind to help reduce friction between hairs which, in turn, reduces the amount of electrostatic charge in hair. This helps make hair more manageable and helps prevent damage.
Cationic surfactants aren’t usually compatible with anionic surfactants! - Amphoteric – Amphoteric surfactants can carry either a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of your product. Despite that, they are still compatible with all of the other types of surfactants. These tend to be very mild surfactants which is why they are usually combined with other surfactants. While amphoteric surfactants may not give a lot of foam on their own, they can help boost the foam of the other surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants are often combined with anionic surfactants to reduce their harshness and help stabilize their foam.
Natural surfactants list:
Natural surfactants can be derived from many types of plants. Common sources are coconut or palm, but they can also be derived from other types of fruits and vegetables.
There are many natural surfactants on the market today, and with increased consumer demand, I imagine that many more will be available in time. I have tried many of them, but today I’ll focus on some of my favorites. I like these surfactants because they are gentle, they tend to be easier to find, and they work well together. You can use these in everything from gentle shampoos to shower gels, facial cleanser, and baby washes.
Choosing your surfactants
Keep in mind that many of these surfactants are not palm free, so you’ll want to source them from places that allow for sustainable methods of obtaining their materials. I buy surfactants that have been certified sustainable by RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) standards.
Another thing to keep in mind is that these surfactants can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. The names are polymeric and aren’t referring to an exact structure. Some places will use different plants as the origin of elaborating each surfactant, and the way each surfactant cleans, solubilizes, etc. can vary depending on where you buy it from. I’ll be describing these surfactants based on my suppliers, but you’ll want to check on the specifications of the surfactant you are buying if it’s important to you to know what plants have been used to derive them, the pH, the concentration, etc. Use this list as a general guideline!
Along those lines, while mine are listed as ECOCERT approved, that may also be dependent upon the manufacturer of each surfactant.
I’ll be updating this list and adding more surfactants as I use them and learn more about them. For now, though, this should give you a good starting point to understanding what we are going to be working with.
Coco Glucoside
Coco Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant that is obtained from coconut oil and fruit sugars, but it can also be obtained from either potato or corn. It is a very gentle, foamy cleanser and is completely biodegradable. You can use it in products that you want to have an ECOCERT certification. It has an alkaline pH (around 12) which makes it self-preserving as is, but you will probably have to adjust the final pH of products using it to pull it into a range more suitable for your skin or hair (and you’ll need to add a preservative).
Decyl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside is very similar to coco glucoside (non-ionic and ECOCERT compatible), but it has a shorter chain length. It creates less foam (its foam is less stable) than coco glucoside but it does add more viscosity to a product. It is derived from coconut oil and glucose and is completely biodegradable. It can be used in all sorts of shampoos, gels, baby products, etc.
Lauryl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside is very similar to the other 2 glucosides I’ve mentioned. It has a longer chain length and more viscosity. It takes longer to foam than the other two, but it also has the most stable foam. While it is also a mild cleanser, it isn’t as mild as the other 2 alkyl polyglucosides.
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a gentle anionic surfactant that can be used in natural products (ECOCERT). It is a great alternative to SLS for a milder, more natural shampoo (or body wash, etc.). It has larger molecules than some of the other surfactants (like SLS) making it unable to penetrate and irritate the skin in the same way. It cleans and provides foam in products made for people with sensitive skin.
Coco Betaine
Coco betaine is a coconut based amphoteric surfactant. It’s mild and can help boost foam and increase the viscosity of products made with it. It’s very mild and provides for gentle cleansing. It’s completely biodegradable and has a pH around 6-8. It is also ECOCERT compatible so it can be used in the elaboration of “natural” and “organic” type products.
Sodium Coco Sulfate
Sodium coco sulfate is an anionic surfactant that is ECOCERT and BDIH friendly. It has a pH of 10-11 and is derived from coconut oil. It is a water-soluble surfactant that is sold in solid form. It’s usually used in non-soap shampoo bars and/or bar cleaners (syndet bars).
Plantapon® SF
Plantapon SF is a mix of vegetable-based surfactants (coconut, corn, and palm based) that can be used in a variety of gentle cleansing products like shampoos, shower gels, and facial cleansers. It includes sodium cocoamphoacetate, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and glycerin. It has a pH between 6.5 and 7.5.
Because this is a mix of surfactants, it can be a good choice for those who are just delving into working with surfactants. You can easily mix up formulations without needing to buy a lot of raw materials or doing a lot of work. (I’ll work on getting up some recipes that use this as soon as I can.)
Completely natural surfactants
While not as effective as the other more processed surfactants derived from natural sources, those looking for a completely natural alternative may be interested in studying some of these natural surfactants. These plant based cleansers all have natural saponins that are a type of non-ionic surfactant. They can be used alone or combined with the other surfactants for a more effective final product.
Soap Nuts (Soap Berries, Aritha)
The fruits taken from the sapindus trees/shrubs from the lychee family have saponins which are natural non-ionic surfactants. They are usually called either soap nuts or soap berries, and they clean without creating much foam.
You can either throw a cloth bag of them in with your laundry to naturally wash your clothes, or you can steep them in warm water to extract a liquid that can be used for cleaning. Make just enough for what you’ll need and you can freeze the rest.
Liquid Yucca Extract
Liquid yucca extract is a natural non-ionic surfactant that comes from the yucca plant, a desert plant that has natural saponins of its own. While you can add it to your homemade shampoos, yucca extract is also used in gardening to help get nutrients to the roots of other plants by washing away concentrated salts that build up.
Shikakai powder
Shikakai powder is another plant with natural saponins which are natural non-ionic surfactants. It is normally used in hair care as a very natural “shampoo.” It naturally has a low pH which makes it ideal for hair care. It’s said to be good for all hair types, especially those that are prone to breakage and damage. Like with the other natural surfactants, you can either combine it with other surfactants or use it on its own. To use it on its own, you make a paste by mixing the powder with warm water and running it through your wet hair once it the paste has cooled. You then leave it to act for 10-15 minutes before rinsing it out. It may slightly darken hair.
Soapwort
Soapwort is another plant that has been used for many years as a soap alternative. It can be used to clean the skin, wash your hair, or even as a laundry soap. It’s especially good for delicate fabrics. To use soapwort, you need to make an infusion of the soapwort in water, and then you can use the resulting liquid as a liquid soap alternative.
Frank Loche
I just stumbled across your site. You have a very comprehensive knowledge of surfactants. Which is impressive. Wanted to offer my assistance to you if ever you have very technical questions on surfactant chemistry or applications. I have worked my entire career as a surfactant chemist (40+ years) and have multiple patents in this area.
Tracy Ariza
Hi Frank,
Than you so much!
I really appreciate that! I may take you up on that offer someday! If you have anything you’d like to share with my readers, let me know. Feel free to write me at [email protected]
Candas Augustine
Hi Tracy!! Can you share your supplier? I’d like to purchase some surfactants from credible sources!!
Tracy Ariza
Hi Candas,
I live in Spain, so I buy locally here.
If you tell me where you live, I can give you some ideas of the better places to buy (from what I’ve heard).
Tracy Ariza
Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you feel more comfortable sharing your country there. 😉
Andreas T.
Hello Frank!I m preparing a laundry powder detergent with the following ingredients and I would like your opinion. Sodium sulfate,sodium carbonate,sodium chloride,grinded vegetable origin soap, synthetic zeolite,cellulose gum, citric acid and magnesium sulfate.Thank you!
Sarah
Hi Frank,
I make bath products, I wanted to switch to a more natural foaming agent. I want the maximum foam out of my bubble products but with the most natural agents. Which one or combination should I use?
Thank you.
Candas Augustine
Hi Frank!! I have many other questions in regards to surfactants! Would you mind answering a few of my questions please!?
Amanda Thomas
Hello, I am looking for a natural emulsifier/surfactant that I could add to facial oil to make a self emulsifying cleansing oil for the ocm. What would you recomend? I just want it to help with the washing away of of the of the oil and not remove any natural sebum or mess with the acid mantle of the skin. Thank you!
Tracy Ariza
Hi Amanda,
If you’re looking for a natural emulsifier for a cleanser, perhaps you could try Olivem. It’s an olive based emulsifier that is one of the more natural ones. One of the complaints with that emulsifier is that it can feel “soapy” to some people, but for cleansers, that’s actually not a bad thing and you can use it to your advantage. 😉
If you’re looking to have an oil cleansing feel, an emulsifier is probably the way to go.
If you do want to go with surfactants, though, you could maybe start out with really gentle ones like the ones I used in my micellar water recipe. You can use it with water as I normally do (but it’s gentle enough to leave on the skin too).
I use it every night lately. (And, yes, I tend to rinse it off.) 😉
eileen
hello-
I’m looking to purchase cationic surfactant for use with fabric dyeing –
do you know where I can purchase it?
thx!
Tracy Ariza
Hi Eileen,
I’m sorry, but I’m not at all familiar with which surfactants are used for dyeing fabric.
I mostly use for hair products.
Ashley
I’m looking to start making an all natural shampoo. I’ve been using the soap nuts + shikakai in my formula. But I find it’s too liquid. I’ve been thinking of adding crothix (to thicken) , guar gum + leucidal liquid SF (natural preservative). So would it be safe to add in coco betaine to make the shampoo lather better rather than the crothix? Or is this all wrong lol
Tracy Ariza
Hi Ashley,
Shikai and soap nuts are normally used on their own to make a super natural shampoo that is mixed right before use without preservatives.
How are you using the shikakai? It’s normally in a powder form, and I’m not sure I’d want to add it into a “normal” shampoo as it is normally used in a different way.
For a shampoo, any extra “organic” ingredients (I’m talking anything food-like or plant-like) can greatly increase the risk of bacterial contamination (even when using a preservative).
You could make an extract of the soap nuts and add that, but I’m not sure how you would add the shikakai safely.
I would probably use the coco betaine as the main surfactant and experiment with adding some soap nut extract as supplemental. I’ve never worked with crothix before, so I don’t know a lot about it. I used xanthan gum to thicken my homemade shampoo.
Yes, you can use Leucidal. I’d recommend using it at 4% of the recipe if it’s a stand-alone preservative.
Courtney
Hi- what surfactant would you recommend for toothpaste?
Great article btw.
Tracy Ariza
I have a natural toothpaste at home that uses lauryl glucoside and sodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium cocoyl glutamate.
I tried using lauryl glucoside in one (not up on the blog yet) and found it gave off a strong flavor, but I think I added too much because it gave too much foam for me. 😉
Perhaps they are using a mix to avoid that or to use their synergistic properties to get a certain feel. I don’t know as I’ve never worked with the latter two.
Any of those should work, though. (As I’m sure any of the glucosides would be fine.)
Evan
Hi Tracy!
Quick question. I’m attempting to make a cleaning solution (and as basic as possible). My surfactant that I’m using is Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside (which is a nonionic). My question is, how many parts surfactant per vinegar is typically needed to make it a practical solution for cleaning?
Thanks!
Tracy Ariza
Hi Evan,
While I haven’t worked with that particular surfactant, usually you would make up a cleaning solution of equal parts of water to vinegar. Then you really don’t need much surfactant.
So, let’s say you have 1/2 liter vinegar, 1/2 liter of water- you would probably add around 1/2 tsp. of surfactant maybe. You can play with adding more or less, depending on what you are cleaning and on the concentration of your particular surfactant.
Starr
I’m looking to make bath whip. It calls for sci, coca bet, glycerin, stearin acid, and germall. Can any one of these substitute for any of that?
Tracy Ariza
Hi Starr,
Both Coco Betaine and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate are mild surfactants that are on the more natural side. There is no need to substitute those out as they are great surfactants to work with.
The Germall is the preservative, the stearic acid is probably there to thicken it, and the glycerin is a humectant.
Racquel
Hello!
Thank you so much for posting this! Super informative. What surfectant would you recommend for creating your own oil cleanser for your face? Or would you even need a surfectant?
Tracy Ariza
Hi Raquel,
Check out my post for how to make micellar water. It should give you some good ideas. 😉
Andrew
Hi Tracy
Great article. I was hoping you could recommend a natural surfactant for homemade toothpaste?
Best wishes
Andrew
Tracy Ariza
Hi Andrew,
I’ve seen lauryl glucoside used in a lot of toothpastes so I’d think any of the glucosides would work fine. They probably choose that one because of it’s texture. It’s thicker than the others.
I’ve also seen sodium cocoyl glutamate used a lot, but I have no experience with using that.
Maggie
Hi Tracy!
Any advice on which of the surfactants (or combo) are best suited for facial cleansers?
Tracy Ariza
Hi Maggie,
I like the glucosides because they are very gentle!
You can see an example in my DIY Micellar water recipe. It’s a very gentle facial cleanser that you can use as a leave on product. I normally use ti and rinse it, though. 😉