Making your own facial moisturizer isn't difficult, and it can save you a lot of money. Learn to make a homemade moisturizer for oily, acne prone skin, and control the quality of ingredients absorbed by your skin.
For the last 30 years or so, I've struggled with oily, acne prone skin. Of course, when I was 13 years old, it wasn't that unusual. I could blame it on the hormonal changes of adolescence. When I hit 20, I was excited that it was finally time for my skin to clear up, but it didn't; nor did it when I hit 30, or 40 for that matter!
To be honest, I've always avoided wearing any type of facial moisturizer because I was afraid that it would make my skin break out more than it already was.
As I've gotten older, though, I have started to worry about wearing some sort of moisturizer to prevent age lines and wrinkles.
The best oils for oily and acne prone skin
After a bit of studying, I realized that not all oils will cause breakouts, nor will they all make your skin feel oily. In fact, there are oils that are great for balancing the oils in your skin, so they can actually be beneficial to somebody like me who has oily or combination skin. When making your own homemade moisturizer, it's important to use the best oils for your skin type!
If you don't want to use all of the oils I used, you can use your own combination of the following oils. (Just make sure to keep the total oil weight the same.)
Hemp seed oil
Hemp seed oil may be my favorite oil for people with oily and/or acne prone skin!
Not only does it have a comedogenic rating of ZERO, but it is known to help balance the oils in your skin. It may also help clear up blackheads and small pimples. It does all of that while helping reduce dry patches, inflammation, redness, and fine lines!
It's a definite must have in any homemade lotion for oily and acne prone skin.
Argan oil
Argan oil was already one of my favorite oils for both skin and hair, but I love it even more knowing that it also has a comedogenic rating of ZERO.
The great thing about argan oil is that, because it helps balance the sebum production of the skin, it is a great oil to use on any skin type. It hydrates and works great on flaking or itchy dry skin. It is normally very well tolerated by people with sensitive skin, and it may help eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis.
Because it helps balance the sebum production of your skin, it's especially great for moisturizing oily or combination skin.
Sunflower oil
I was very surprised to find that sunflower oil is another oil with a comedogenic rating of ZERO! There is a catch, though: you shouldn't use sunflower oil with a high oleic content which may clog pores. Sunflower oil that doesn't specifically say it is high oleic, which is made from sunflowers that have been crossbred to be high oleic to help prolong their shelf life and make them healthier for eating, should be fine.
Otherwise sunflower oil is probably the very best oil to use on acne prone skin because it is the highest in linoleic acid of the oils with a comedogenic rating of zero. People who are acne prone tend to have lower levels of linoleic acid in their skin, and it is generally thought that oils high in linoleic acid will help with acne.
Shea butter
Shea butter is another one of those surprising oils because it's so thick that you would only imagine it would cause your skin to break out. Interestingly enough, though, it also has a comedogenic rating of zero! It also naturally blocks some UVB rays, which is great in a day cream, even if it only slightly helps against them.
One thing to note, some people (not all) with a latex allergy may also react to shea butter. If you are in doubt, sub out the shea butter for a different oil in the recipe!
Rosehip oil
Rosehip oil is great for helping combat the redness and inflammation from acne. I was first introduced to rosehip oil when my husband was badly burned in an accident on his fishing boat. During his rehabilitation phase, the doctors prescribed rubbing reshape oil into the scars daily to help reduce them and allow for mobility in the scarred areas of his skin.
Rosehip oil is thought to help with a lot of skin conditions: from fine lines and wrinkles, scarring, and skin discolorations like age spots to eczema, psoriasis, and stretch marks.
I think that with all of its benefits, that reshape oil makes a great addition to a homemade moisturizer for acne prone skin. That said, I should mention that it has a comedogenic rating of 1. That is still a very low rating and most people react well to it. Some people with acne like to use rosehip oil on alternate days and find that it helps them when used in that way. I chose to use it in a low percentage of the cream, and it's been working out for me. If you have issues with rosehip oil, though, or prefer to use a different oil instead, by all means sub it out for a different oil on my list!
Other beneficial Ingredients to use with oily and acne prone skin
Rose water
I used rose water in this recipe because it smells lovely, moisturizes, and it can also help fight acne and eczema. It also may help heal wounds and clear up scars!
While I normally add essential oils to my lotions and creams, the rose water left this facial cream with such a lovely fragrance that I didn't choose to add any. If you have moderate to more severe acne, though, you may want to consider adding some tea tree essential oil to your cream.
Which emulsifier should you use?
Because this is a recipe for acne prone skin, I chose to use an emulsifier that is known to be non-comedogenic. For my first batch, the one that I've been using for around 2 months now, I used Montanov 68 as the emulsifier. It's an emulsifier that is made from tapioca and coconut oil, and is said to be non-comedogenic. It gave my cream a light, yet thick, texture that goes on wonderfully, and makes my skin feel nice and smooth. I love it so far.
Since I started posting about how to make lotions, though, it has come to my attention that it is harder to find Montanov 68 in the United States, so I started researching other emulsifiers.
Olivem is another natural emulsifier that is considered non-comedogenic. It comes from the olive plant, and makes a nice creamy lotion, too. While I haven't tried it in this specific recipe yet, I have since bought it and began to use it in trials. I think it should make the perfect substitute for those who can't find Montanov 68. I plan on making my next batch, which will be within the next month, using Olivem to see how it works out. I've never had issues using Olivem, but I have read accounts of people who think it's a more difficult emulsifier to use. I suspect that they may be over-beating their lotions, though. I have never had issues using Olivem when hand stirring my creams.
Natural Preservatives
For this recipe, I chose Leucidal because it's a fairly accesible natural preservative both here in Spain and in the United States. That makes me think it's fairly accesible worldwide. (Hopefully)
Leucidal comes from fermenting radishes with a bacteria called Leuconostoc Kimchii. Using it as 3-4% of your recipe allows you to keep your finished lotion for 2-3 months (outside of the fridge) provided that you have made the lotion in hygienic conditions.
There are several other natural preservatives that you can use. I cover more about preservatives and emulsions in my post about how to make a basic lotion. If you haven't made lotions or creams before, it's a good idea to read through that post to give you a better idea of the process. (Don't worry, it's easy!)
Using essential oils
This is one of the few times that I haven't added essential oils to one of my homemade lotions. That doesn't mean that you can't add them, though. I mostly didn't add them because I loved the rose scent of this lotion that came from using rose water.
If you want to try to help increase the acne fighting benefits of this homemade moisturizer, though, tea tree oils is probably the best essential oil for treating acne. Not only is it gentle enough to be well tolerated by most people, it has been shown to kill bacteria on the skin, which may very well help clear up acne.
Lavender oil is often used in skin treatments for acne prone skin and it effectively helps clear up the skin of some people. Others, though, may find that it causes redness and makes the problem worse.
It may be a good idea to divide the batch of moisturizer up and test out any essential oils on your skin before adding them to an entire batch.
Should you use this as a day cream or as a night cream?
I use this cream for both day and night.
Normally, the only differences between day and night creams are that night creams often use photosensitive ingredients that can't be used in day creams. They are also sometimes a bit heavier and greasier than a cream that you would want to wear in the day under your makeup.
Because the heavier, greasier creams tend to be more beneficial to drier skin types, and this cream doesn't have any photosensitive ingredients, for now I'm sticking with this cream for my face for both day and night. As I get older, I'll likely try making something heavier for aging skin, especially at night.
Have I convinced you to give it a go?
Homemade Moisturizer for Oily, Acne Prone Skin
Homemade Moisturizer for Oily, Acne Prone Skin
Making your own facial moisturizer isn’t difficult, and it can save you a lot of money. Learn to make a homemade moisturizer for oily, acne prone skin, and control the quality of ingredients absorbed by your skin.
Ingredients
- 10 g sunflower oil not high oleic
- 5 g argan oil
- 5 g hemp seed oil
- 5 g shea butter
- 5 g rosehip oil
- 40 g distilled water
- 25 g rose water
- 5 g montanov 68 or olivem or other emulsifier
- 4 g Leucidal or other natural preservative
Instructions
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Weigh out the distilled water and rose water, and heat them over a double boiler while you measure out the oils.
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Weigh the oils and emulsifier on a scale. I like to use a double boiler insert for weighing them, which I can bring directly to the double boiler afterwards for melting and combining them.
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Heat the oils and emulsifier until the emulsifier has melted and all are well combined.
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Combine the hot oils and waters while hot, stirring until well combined. The mixture will thicken and become more opaque as it cools. (If your mixture isn't emulsifying well, it is usually a temperature problem. It can usually be fixed by stirring the mixture while heating it over a double boiler.)
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Allow the mixture to cool before adding in the preservative and any essential oils you may decide to add.
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Pour the facial cream into bottles. I love airless type dispensers like the ones in my photo because you can dispense the cream easily without contaminating the cream with bacteria from your fingers.
Recipe Notes
I was surprised by how fragrant my homemade moisturizer was with such a small amount of rose water. If you want a more pronounced rose scent, though, you can substitute part of the distilled water for more rose water. You can also change it out for another floral water or hydrosol of your choice.
I have the final amount listed as 100ml even though it is really a recipe that is measured in grams and not in milliliters. The oil component of ml to grams isn't exactly interchangeable, but the difference is so small that I left it in ml so that you could more easily find a container to hold your final product. You can adjust the amount of the recipe to suit whichever container you plan to use.
Does anyone have the ingredients in volumes rather than weight? My scale doesn’t seem to be sensitive enough and allows for a big range.
For other recipes that do not call for emulsifiers or preservatives, is there a standard for using them?
You’re welcome!
You only need an emulsifier for a product that combines water and oils- where you want them to stay together. So, you’ll use them in any basic lotion recipe, conditioners, and even for something like an emulsified sugar scrub. Actually, in the case of the sugar scrub, you don’t even need to combine with water, but you want it to form a lotion when you combine it with water on your skin. That helps keep it from being greasy like a sugar scrub that doesn’t have an emulsifier.
The preservatives also really only need to be used in products with water in them. Oil based products without water, like the lotion bars, won’t need them. In some cases, it’s a good idea to add a preservative anyway. A good example is the emulsified sugar scrub. It doesn’t really need one, but it’s a good idea to add one if you will be storing it in a jar in the shower. If it gets contaminated with water, microbes can grow. You can normally see mold forming, so you will know to throw something moldy away. The problem is that you won’t normally see the bacteria forming, not even in a transparent product.
Does all of that make sense?
I plan to make this moisturizer but wonder if the sunflower, hemp and argan oils can be substituted? Also I have a concentrated rose water and don’t know how to dilute it? thank you
Hi Sandy,
Yes, you can switch out the oils for whatever oils you like. I was just trying to give you a good combination of oils with a low comedogenic rating. I’ve personally made the recipe as written several times and love the way it feels. Different oils may give a different feeling and may behave differently when used.
As for the concentrated rose water- I’m not sure. Does your supplier not give any sort of idea for diluting it?
If you can’t find a dilution, I’d maybe use a very small amount and mostly use distilled water.
thank you for the info.
Hey! I’ve read this article and I’m REALLY excited to try this out. Like, really 😂
But I have a problem, I live in (south east) Asia – Malaysia to be exact, and I’m struggling to find both Montanov 68 and Leucidal. I want to use the exact ingredients you used, to get a perfect result.
I’ve found a good online store that sells Montanov, but the shipping fee is DOUBLE of the emulsifier itself! Definitely not getting that!
May I know where you got your Montanov 68 AND leucidal? Online? Or was it available in a store near you? If so, what type of store is it? Pharmacy?
Do you think I can find it in a store? Or must I travel to a lab to find it though?
And lastly, I’m planning to add a few drops of tea tree oil. I’m suffering from moderate to high acne – slowly healing, but there’s still many scars and I’m still in the puberty stage. How many drops would you suggest?
I hope you reply me. Thank you so much for this amazing article! ❤️
Hi Hsiu,
Most of the emulsifiers and preservatives are ingredients that are impossible to find in local stores. I always buy online.
I’ve bought the Montanov 68 from 2 different suppliers now. I’ve bought from cremascaseras.es and granvelada.com. (I haven’t used theirs yet as I just got that order this week.)
I really like Montanov 68, but you can really use any natural preservative. Lately, I’ve been trying out different ones and find Sharomix quite nice and easy to use. I also have used Rokonsal, cosgard (Geogard), preservative ECO, etc.
I wouldn’t worry too much about that.
The emulsifier will change the consistency of the lotion/moisturizer, so it helps to have a nice one, but Montanov 68 isn’t the only good one.
Some suppliers will give you free shipping after spending a certain amount. If you plan on making more of your cosmetics, I think it’s worthwhile to do it that way. I order in larger batches and buy all of my oils, waxes, emulsifiers and preservatives at once.
as for the tea tree oil. Tea tree is pretty well handled by the skin, so… you could add up to 1% of the recipe (around 1g). You don’t need to add that much, though. You could start out with 10-20 drops and work up to a larger amount. It really depends on how sensitive your skin is. (Mine isn’t very sensitive at all, and I’ve been known to dab it on pimples full strength. 😉 Not that I recommend it, but it is one of the safer oils.)
I hope that helps you!
I just found both at lotioncrafter.com
Thanks, Cara! 🙂
Thanks for such a really informative post. I like your post very much. Please tell me best upcharnuskhe for soft lips in winter season.
Hi Preeti,
I’m not quite sure what sort of product you are asking for.
I do have a healing lip balm recipe on the blog. Is that what you are looking for?
Hi. I have extremely acne-prone skin. I’m a but hesitant to use the sunflower oil since I’m not sure if I can find one that is not high in oleic. Do you recommend any product that can replace the sunflower oil? Thank you!
Hi Dania,
I understand completely about your hesitancy! I was worried about it at first too!
After more investigation, I think that most sunflower oils should be fine. You just don’t want one of the special “high oleic” sunflower oils meant for frying foods.
If you aren’t sure, before going through the work of making the cream, you could test by using sunflower oil directly on your skin at night for a few days to see how your skin reacts. (You could test a certain area.)
If you are set against using other oils, though, any of the other oils in the recipe could be used at higher concentrations. You can use any combination of oils, just make sure that the total weight of oils is the same.
The comedogenic rating isn’t really always helpful anyway…
It’s sort of a guideline based on averages, but all of us have different skin that will react differently to different oils. So, even if you have acne prone skin, you may have no issues with coconut oil which has a higher rating on the scale, but it may me break out. Jojoba oil tends to be good for most people, but can cause temporary breakouts in some people while the skin “purges.”
The comedogenic ratings can definitely help us choose oils that probably won’t make us break out, but it’s really all about trial and error for each of us!
Hello! First off, I cannot wait to try this out! However, I have a couple questions. First, can you please link the bottles you used? Second, do you think that this emulsifier would be sufficient? https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/products/emulsifying-wax/profile
Thank you so much!!!!
Hi Ahlam,
I haven’t personally tested that emulsifying wax yet, so I’m not sure the exact texture it will give you, but it should work to emulsify the oils into a lotion/moisturizer. Different emulsifiers will need differing amounts of wax to reach similar consistencies, and different waxes can give a different feel to your lotions. So, while you probably won’t end up with the lotion being exactly the same as mine, I’d imagine you’ll end up with a nice moisturizer too.
To calculate how much to use, I’d go by the ranges that they give you when you order. (Normally the waxes I’ve bought have mentioned a good effective range for reaching a lotion consistency. The more you add, the thicker your lotion/cream will usually end up being.)
Does anyone have these measurements in volumes rather than weight?
I don’t suggest working with volumes in something as precise as soap and cosmetic recipes. The problem is many of these ingredients, like the emulsifying waxes, can come in different formats. So, if you have smaller beads or larger beads, you can’t really judge if you are really using the right amounts. While it won’t change the recipe much if you are slightly off with the water measurements (or oil measurements, if there are any) in lotion recipes, small changes in emulsifying waxes can completely change the consistency of the recipe. The same goes for the preservatives- the measurements should be quite precise.
I’d have no problem telling you the volume if I knew it, but I always work in weight in these types of recipes as I feel it’s important. You can find inexpensive digital scales for around $10 or less. If you plan on making your own cosmetics and/or soaps in the future, I really think it’s worth getting one.
I’m sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
Dear Tracy,
Do you have a recipe for mature face skin and natural sun block?
Thank you & have a nice day!
Hi Suzanna,
I’m working on some moisturizers for other skin types.
As for a sunblock, you can add some zinc oxide to other creams or lotions to help block the sun.
Most skincare formulators with small companies don’t make sunblocks because they say that you really need to use a high power homogenizer to get the ZO to be fully dispersed within the cream to make it fully effective. It’s very hard to get certified for a certain SPF. That doesn’t mean that you can’t carefully DIY something, though. You just have to be mindful of that and be careful when using it.
Do you sell the moisturizer for those that can’t make it?
Hi Steve,
I’m sorry, but I don’t make any products to sell because of all of the regulations here that would make doing so legally just too difficult for me. I’m happy to help anybody through the process of making their own, though!
The process is a bit difficult considering the fact that it is also not easy to get the ingredients, I stay in Nigeria anyway
It’s an absolutely wonderful cream. What stumps me, is that in your photo the cream is white. The hemp oil is green, and so my cream came out green as well
Hi Helena,
No worries there. 🙂
I’ve found that the different hemp oils bought from different places are more or less green and have more or less of a hemp scent.
I think when I first made it (the one in the photos), I had used what was probably a more refined hemp oil from the health food store. I now have been buying a greener oil with more of a scent that we use for salads, etc. I was going to make my next batch with the newer oil, and my suspicion is that it will be slightly green too. 🙂
You can use whatever type you prefer. If the color/scent bothers you, you could try a more refined one.
Hi Tracy,
Thank you for the recipe. I find this lotion to be still too oily for my taste. Do you have recommendation to remedy that? Will aloe vera gel do the trick?
Hi jc,
What emulsifier did you use? I think the issue may be in the emulsifier as this moisturizer was very light for me and not at all oily. If you were to add something like aloe vera gel at this point, it may or may not combine well into a stable emulsion, and you’d want to calculate out the amount of extra preservative that you’d need based on the new weight of the product. You can definitely try it, though.
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for replying! I used vegetable emulsifyer. Now that i have been using it for couple of days i absolutely love it – i just wish the texture was silkier? Perhaps if i use olivem that might do the trick? 🙂
Hi JC,
I have had good success with Olivem, but some people say it’s very finicky and hard to use. I haven’t had problems with it separating, but it is something to keep in mind. It may need another co-emulsifier to help keep things stable.
The other possible issue with Olivem is that some people say it feels “soapy.” Again, I didn’t feel that way, but so far I’ve only used it for a couple of batches of my stress and headache cream where you only use a little bit of the cream at a time. I’ve been meaning to experiment more with Olivem before making too many recommendations, though. (I’m planning on making a cleansing cream with olivem soon as I think the “soapy” properties of it would be great in those sorts of recipes.)
Montanov is really my favorite in texture so far. I absolutely love it, but I realize that it may not be easy for everybody to find. I’ll need to start looking for more sources for everything.
If you do try with Olivem, I’d love to hear how it turns out.
I am formulating a face cream right now. The problem is that it will be highly perishable. Even with preservatives and refrigeration I don’t dare make too much at a time. I will need to mix and whip a quantity not much more than 1/4 cup. I am going nuts trying to find a blender or mixer that can handle such a small amount. Do any of you have any ideas? I would prefer things that you have actually tested.
Hi Denise – I find using a hand coffee frother works really well for lotions.
Thanks, Laurie, for the tip! 🙂
Hey Tracy, Im very new about making natural cosmetics, so maybe my question will be so old, nobody talks about anymore. 🙂
I tried your recipe with beeswax, as i see nobody does that anymore, so my production started to sweating 🙁 isnt there any way to work with beeswax?
Hi Tuonela,
I’m not sure I understand the question. Are you adding the beeswax to the moisturizer recipe as such to make it thicker?
Or are you trying to emulsify the lotion with beeswax?
Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier, so you can’t use it to try to get the water and oils to come together into a stable emulsion. You may be able to get a temporary one, if lucky, but it will separate again. You can add beeswax to formulas to make them thicker, though.
To make a lotion or moisturizer with both water and oils, you need to use an emulsifying wax of some sort, or some other type of emulsifier.
Yes, I was trying to emulsify the lotion with beeswax.
Thank you very much for your reply.
You’re welcome.
I made that mistake a long time ago myself. 😉
Definitely try again with an emulsifying wax. I promise the result will be much nicer!
Dear Tracy,
I’ve made this cream and it seems perfect for my skin. Thank you. Do you have a recipe for a facial cleanser? I usually use commercially available cleansing milk + toner, but I would prefer to make them by myself.
Hi Vesna,
I’m so happy to hear it!
It works really well for me, too. 🙂
Yes! You’ll be happy to know that I’ve made a few cleansers recently. I posted the first of them last week, a micellar water. It’s a gentle, no-need-to-rinse cleanser. I like it for mornings and for taking off hard to remove makeup.
Over the next weeks, I have other cleansers planned for posting, so stay tuned. 😉
That’s great, thank you 🙂
Hi Tracy,
What a lovely looking recipe 🙂 I just had a couple of questions:
-Can you sub out the distilled water for aloe Vera juice?
– can I make up the total amount of oil weight with just 2 different oils (hemp and Argan)?
Thank you!
Hi Vanessa,
Yes! To both of your questions with a slight warning on the first one.
Aloe juice, and other botanicals make your product more difficult to preserve. That’s especially true with the more natural preservatives.
I wouldn’t use aloe juice that you extract yourself as it’s really impossible to know how to preserve it adequately. I’d use a commercially bought aloe juice that already has some sort of natural preservative. I’d probably only sub out part of the water, and use aloe and/or other extracts as part of the water component.
If you use a commercial aloe “gel”- that could affect the texture/emulsion, depending on the ingredients in the gel. So keep that in mind too. 🙂
I just made this and it is lovely! I ended up not adding all the water (I used only distilled water and no rose water) because the texture was very thin. I’m wondering if others have experienced this. This also happened to me when I doubled the conditioner recipe (I commented on that post too!) and I’m wondering if maybe my issue is that my scale is not very accurate? Thank you so much for these recipes!
Hi Maeve,
Hmmm- that does have me wondering. Why in both cases your product was much lighter than mine. I actually wouldn’t mind a thin conditioner, to use in a spray bottle as a leave-in conditioner. (I poured my first batch into spray bottles, thinking it was thinner than it was, but it got thicker overnight, leaving the spray bottles difficult to use.)
In this case, though, a thin lotion probably isn’t optimal. I absolutely loved the texture of my resulting moisturizer.
I will say this- that many digital scales seem to be much less accurate when you have more weight on them. I mean that when you first add ingredients, every drop seems to show up on the scale, but when you start to add more ingredients, and the total amount on the scale weighs more, those smaller amounts no longer show up as well. If that was the case, it would make sense that you could have issues when doubling a recipe for that very reason. (You may try weighing out each main ingredient separately and then combining them to see if that changes things.
Here, though, you were only making a small batch, so I’m not sure what the issue would be. You aren’t MK, are you?
I did just get another comment- coincidentally for the first time today- that said that this recipe came out thinner using the amount that I mentioned, but that when the amount of emulsifier was increased, it all worked out.
I’m wondering if Montanov 68 changes from distributor to distributor. I’ve made this recipe several times by now, and it always turns out the same for me. I’m starting to think that maybe I need to make a note that each person use the percentage of emulsifier suggested by their seller. Did you packaging give a suggested usage range for emulsifying?
Hi again! I’m in the US (though will soon be in Europe!). I didn’t have access to Monatov and used the emulsifier I had on hand – BTMS. I suspect the problem is a combination of a crappy scale and not letting it sit long enough and the wrong emulsifier! I ordered Olivem and will try that next. I made the lotion for my partner who just started massage school to use as a hand moisturizer, as he has to wash his hands at least 6 times a day! He’s going through it quickly!!
Do you have suggestions on what to donif it is not absorbing quickly enough, and ending up feeling greasy if he uses more than a tiny bit? This time I’m going to try adding all of the water and maybe that will help.
Oh, and no I’m not MK! Thanks again for your thoughtful help with using these recipes!
You’re very welcome. I’m happy to help!
Hello again,
Well BTMS is a bit different and makes a different consistency product. It still should thicken up, but it’s mostly used for hair conditioners and “light lotions” according my packaging. That’s why I decided to use it in my roll on deodorant recipe, because I wanted something that wasn’t too thick. The emulsifier used does make a big difference in the final consistency and general feel of the product.
I’ve used Olivem, and didn’t have any issues with it (I keep reading about people having a hard time getting it to work for them), and I’ve suggested it at times because it seems like a natural option that is generally easy to find worldwide. That said, I have to admit that I like Montanov a lot more. I just love the nice texture it gives creams. People sometimes say that Olivem gives a bit of a soap feeling- which is why it is sometimes used in cleansing creams. (I’m going to be giving a try at those soon.) 😉
I’m not sure about the feeling greasy part. I didn’t notice mine feeling greasy, but it could, again, have something to do with the feel of the BTMS. It’s a great conditioner because it has something that makes hair untangle wonderfully. I absolutely love it for my hair. I don’t notice it being a problem in the roll on deodorant, but that’s a small area of skin in a sensitive area. Perhaps, though, as you say, adding more water will help- or just using more lotion and trying to spread it out more? I wish I could be of more help there. 🙂
After making about 5 batches of your recipes, conditioner and lotion, I have determined…my digital scale is the worst!!! I’m pretty sure that is the source of all my troubles :). I will affiliate link one from you! Thanks.
Hi,
Thank you so much for posting! I followed the directions precisely and used the Montanov68 emulsifier. The mixture did emulsify, but was in liquid form.
Since I didn’t add the preservative yet, I tried re-heating and adding 4 more grams of the Montanov68. That worked! The mixture ended up being similar to the consistency of a really, really, light moisturizer. Will definitely continue to use this recipe.
Also, I’m in the US and not sure why the batch needed the additional 4 grams of emulsifier. Maybe manufacturers produce different strengths?
Thank you again for the guidance. 🙂
Hi MK,
That is interesting!
I’m not sure why, but, yes, it seems like it would have to be an emulsifier issue.
I guess I should have people use the percentage amount that is recommended by their particular supplier. Did your packaging have a suggested percentage amount?
What’s even more interesting is that mine was actually quite thick at the amounts given. (Well, you can probably see the texture in the photos somewhat.)
Good evening!
I am very new at making my own skin care products, and where I live i couldn’t find any emulsifier. The lady at the health store gave me some cetyl alcohol (and suggested to do 50-50 with some stearic acid), and I was wondering if you ever tried it? Should I put 5gr of it instead of the emulsifier you recommended?
Thanks a lot!
Hello Mathilde,
As far as I know cetyl alcohol and stearic acid aren’t true emulsifiers themselves and are normally used a co-emulsifiers. I don’t have any idea of what the result will be. I will say, though, that the texture of resultant moisturizer is heavily dependent upon which emulsifier you use, so I’d choose a decent one.
I can’t find emulsifiers in stores, either, but they can be easily found online and will send to you. Emulsifiers themselves are pretty inexpensive, and make all of the difference when it comes to the lotions you make. When you switch up the emulsifiers, you end up with different products. (For example, BTMS is a great emulsifier for making light lotions, but is especially great for making a homemade hair conditioner that does an excellent job at detangling your hair!)
I’d highly recommend buying an actual emulsifier for making lotions, and especially for a homemade facial moisturizer. You don’t want to waste expensive oils on something that will just turn out so-so, when you can make something wonderful, just as good as expensive moisturizers you’d buy in the stores (perhaps better) !
I think you may live in France? I’m nearby in Spain and can buy from many local Spanish companies. Some of them send all over Europe if you can’t find a decent one in France (which would surprise me).
Thank you so much! I live in Canada but I am from France. I will try to find something online then, but would you have anything to recommend…? I tried to look up on Amazon but they don’t seem to have neither the emulsifier nor the preservative… Any help would be super appreciated! 🙂
Hi Tracy,
I have decided to experiment with making my own creams, and was wondering how this cream appears on the skin. Is it shiny? Do you feel like it gets absorbed?
Thanks,
Becca
Hi Becca,
I love this moisturizer. It absorbs right away, and, no, it’s not shiny. It’s like the sort of expensive moisturizer you would buy in the store. I hate body butters normally because I don’t like greasy feeling creams. That’s why I started making my own lotions and studying other DIY type products. (I like my hair conditioner more than most conditioners I’ve bought too!) 😉
Hi Tracy,
Thank you sharing your recipe! I am so excited to try this inthe near future. Will you also please advise on the suggested temperature for heating the cream? Thank you again! 🙂
Hi JC,
I’m sorry I missed your comment before. I’m cleaning out the message box and have found some overlooked messages in the process!
Ideal temperatures for both water and oils is 70º-75ºC/160º-170ºF.
Hi, I have two questions. Do you have any suggestions to find cheaper ingredients? My total came to about $70 with just the oils. Also, how long does this lotion usually last you using it twice a day?
Hi Cameron,
In my post, I tried to give guidelines and told you why I chose the oils I chose. I always have lots of different oils on hand for experimenting and making new products for the blog.
You definitely don’t have to use as many different oils as I did in my moisturizer, though. You could cut it down to one or two oils. I chose sunflower oil as the base because it’s probably the cheapest oil for me to find here in Spain. There are lots of sunflower fields here, though, and sunflower is a common oil for frying here.
You could just use one oil, if you like- substituting all of the other oils for that oil (You want to end up with the same amount of total oils). If you want more moisture, you could use a combination of one oil and a butter- like the shea butter.
You don’t need to add rose water either, and can just use distilled water instead. I love the way the rose water naturally scents the lotion, and I think it’s totally worth it, but it’s all optional. You could also use lavender water or another floral water for different type scents. Rose water may be a bit feminine while lavender water would be less gender specific. 😉
As for the emulsifier, you can use a different one. I’m not sure about the comedogenic rating for the different emulsifiers, though, but you could look that up and find one that suits you and your budget.
In the end, each bottle of lotion is very inexpensive. You’ll find that the bottle is mostly made up of water. That said, yes, I understand your initial investment can seem overwhelming!
Why not try your hand at simplifying the recipe first, and if you like the first batch, the next time you can try adding in a new oil or two to make it a bit more complex.
Remember- you can use the same oils for making lotion for your hands and body, for homemade hair conditioner, lip balm, etc., etc.- so once you’ve made the initial investment, the sky is the limit as to what you can do with the oils and emulsifiers!
I hope that helps!
Oh- I’v never really calculated how long it lasts- I just make more whenever I run out. I’ll have to try to gauge it next time. I’m just about ready to make a new batch as I recently ran out, so I can try to check this time. I normally make it immedaitely, as it only takes a few minutes to make, but I’ve been a bit busy with the holidays. 😉
Thanks so much for posting this! I tried making it and while it did emulsify in the sense of it all being a homogeneous mixture, it did not thicken into a lotion – it was just an opaque white liquid. I used Olivem 300 as my emulsifier and Optiphen Plus as the preservative (couldn’t find Leuxidal in Canada). I followed the recipe precisely… any ideas why it didn’t thicken or how to remedy? Many thanks!
Hi Kaitlyn,
Normally the thickness will depend on the emulsifier. Different emulsifiers will thicken to different extents. The bottles I buy usually give guidelines for each- they’ll say use at a certain percentage for a thin lotion, use at a higher percentage for a thicker cream, etc.
If it’s too thin, I’d try to remedy it by adding a bit more of the Olivem. You’ll have to experiment a bit. I forgot to make my next batch with Olivem- partly because I’m always experimenting with making new creams- so I can’t tell you a precise amount to get the same consistency as mine. That said, it seems strange to me that at 5 grams you’d end up with only a liquid. I’d probably add a few more grams to the mixture to see what happens. (Do you have any other emulsifiers on hand? You could add a couple of a different one, as a co-emulsifier, if you think the Olivem isn’t doing its job.)
As I wrote in the post above, some people complain about having issues with Olivem in general. I haven’t had those issues, but it may also have to do with different formulations of the same emulsifier in different place. If your mixture isn’t separating, though, it may just need more.
Keep in mind that reheating the mixture can affect some of the delicate additions to your lotion. What I mean by that is that the essential oils may lose potency and may not give off as much of a scent. Preservatives and other delicate additives may also be affected. I usually add a few more drops of each to the rebatched mixture after it cools, just in case. (You may want to wait and see the final outcome before adding them in, though, so as not to waste them.)
I really hope this helps!
Hi Tracy Ariza ,
The acne skin problem can be eliminate ,if you can use hemp oil daily before the taking of shower bath according to the time period after concerning this kind of problem with the skin specialist of skin and also understand the procedure of applying hemp oil on the body of which is helpful to eliminate the acne disease rapidly and protect your skin from the dryness and cracks appeared due to the working in a sunlight ,My suggestion is to go at a clinic of skin specialist one time in a week for the proper treatment of acne skin disease and also discussed the results comming during the treatment of acne disease ,don’t move in the sun light because the light of sun damaged the upper layer of skin ,So please take care of skin .
Thanks.
I love your website definitely going to try it out! I know this published a while ago but i hope i still get lucky and get respond from you .
I want to know if i can use beeswax and borax as emfuser instead? Its ust the one that i have, i couldn’t find a place that sell the one you use here(amazon dosn’t do shipping here)
Thank you i hope you will keep uploading great recipe as suvh greeting from Israel 🙂
Hi Hodya,
I’d be surprised if you can’t find a decent emulsifier in Israel. Won’t one of the European companies send there? I live in Spain and have bought things from Israel before without problems, so I’d think things could easily go the other way around.
I honestly don’t think that you’ll get a great result from beeswax and borax. Beeswax itself isn’t an emulsifier, and I have heard of people doing an emulsion by adding other things like borax, I’m not sure how well it works. I’ve never tried it myself.
I do find that the quality of the product you make has a lot to do with the emulsifier you use. Even if you can’t find the emulsifiers I used, any emulsifying wax would probably do a decent job. (I can email you my sources here in Spain if you like?)
Yes i would love if you can send me that .
I actually did try make it with the beeswax and borax by other recipe i saw i did kind of combination between your and there( just change the emulisifier) and it becomes more like body butter even though i add the water, i think the beeswax made harder so I’ll really appreciate if you can send me your source
Hey tracy!
I have used emulsifying wax with ingredients Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-150 Stearate, and Steareth-20, and vegetable glycerine in home-made body lotions and had no problems. Are these okay to put in face lotion?
Hi Erin,
Use what works for you!
I’m not sure about the comedogenic rating of the other emulsifiers, etc., but in the grand scheme of things, it is a small percentage of the recipe. I can’t see that they would cause any problems. 😉
I’m just giving a base recipe that people can customize to suit their needs, and give a bit of my reasoning for using the ingredients I use to try to help people make the changes they like/need to make. I’d love to hear how it goes! 🙂
Hey Tracy, My moisturizer came out yellow and a bit thicker than lotion, is that normal. I don’t know if this is because of the sunflower oil or what. I followed your recipe to a tee.
Hey Tracy, What brand did you use for the non high oleic sunflower oil from? Because all of the sunflower oils I have been running across have been high oleic.
Hi Chris,
I was concerned about this as well, and had actually further studied sunflower oils to help answer another comment a while back. I thought I had update the post to reflect my new findings, but it turns out I never got around to it.
I just updated the post now to reflect what I think is accurate. As long as a sunflower oil doesn’t specifically say it’s “high oleic,” you should be fine. “Normal” sunflower oils are high in linoleic acid, which is good for acne prone skin, but isn’t quite as healthy for eating, perhaps, as a high oleic sunflower oil. High oleic sunflower oils are made from sunflowers that have been crossbred to have higher percentages of oleic acid. While they are healthier for eating, and help you maintain a good Omega 3 to 6 ratio, all while having a longer shelf life, they may clog pores for some people. I wasn’t able to find a comedogenic rating for high oleic sunflower oil, but have only seen several references that it can clog pores in some people.
I bought a local brand organic sunflower oil which was available here in Spain. (I doubt you have the same brands outside of Spain.) It worked well for my first batches.
I no longer have that bottle to check on the name, but have since tried just a plain supermarket brand sunflower oil in the name of experimentation.
Even the super cheap bottle of sunflower oil from the supermarket worked well on my skin.
Here in Spain, the two main oils for cooking are sunflower oil and olive oil. The oil aisle in the supermarket is mostly made up of those two oils, with lots of different brands and options for either. In the US, I know that corn and canola oil are used a lot, so I’m guessing you don’t have as many options for sunflower oil.
I linked to a sunflower oil from Amazon that people seemed to like for using on their skin, but I haven’t personally been able to try it out. I did specifically look for something people seemed to be happy with, and the oil I’d try if I were in the US. (The links in the recipe go to ingredients I have either tried or researched and would use myself.)
If you can’t find a non-high oleic sunflower oil, you could either try whatever oil you can find to see how it reacts to your skin. (My guess is that it would still have a low comedogenic rating.) Or, you could just ditch the sunflower oil, and use another non-comedogenic oil that you know does work well on your skin. I chose sunflower as a base because it’s probably the most inexpensive oil I can find here in Spain. That cuts down on the cost of making your own skin care products. On the other hand, facial creams are expensive, so even if you were to use expensive oils like hemp oil and rosehip oil in higher concentrations, you should still be able to save a lot of money making your own facial cream. (And my guess is that you’d have a much higher quality product than what you would be buying for the same price range.)
I hope that helps!
Hi Tracy,
I am eager to try this recipe….so a silly question, where did you get the bottle that is shown in your post? The only ones I can find that look like it are foaming pumps, is that the one you used?
Thanks,
Lynda
Hi Lynda,
Actually it’s a great question, and I’m sort of surprised I didn’t address it in the post. I’ll have to update it with that sort of thing.
It’s called an “airless” pump. I like these sorts of pumps because when you use them, you aren’t introducing any bacteria into your homemade lotions when you make them. They dispense nicely, and the bottom pushes up as you use it, which keeps air out.
I bought mine locally here in Spain, but I found this one that looks similar to mine on Amazon:
It only has 3 stars, but it’s from a person who didn’t like that they called them “porcelain white” because she thought they would be porcelain and not plastic. In any case, a search for airless pump 100ml should bring you results wherever you’re looking for containers.
I take it apart and reuse mine. (I try to further clean it with rubbing alcohol after cleaning it well to help sterilize it before each new use.)
hi,
have you a lotion/cream without the 5 g montanov 68 or olivem or other emulsifier
4 g Leucidal or other natural preservative, please as I haven’t these.
thanks Jus
Hi Jus,
To make a lotion with water and oils, you need an emulsifier of some sort. You can use an emulsifying wax- it doesn’t have to be either of those.)
Once you add water to your lotion, you need to add some sort of preservative.
If you don’t want to use either of those, you can mix up the oils and use the oils directly on your face to help moisturize your skin. You won’t have the same feel of a lotion, though.
Hi, do you know the pH value in the cream? do you use any Lactic acid?
Thanks for great information!
/ debbie from Sweden
Hi Debbie,
For now, I use inexpensive pH test strips. It isn’t important to know an exact measurement for this sort of cream, so the strips are good enough. You just want to make sure you are in the right range for whatever preservative you are using.
I don’t think I normally need to use lactic acid with this recipe. I test it each time because I never remember which recipes need a few drops and which don’t. (It also depends on which preservative I’m using. Plus, I tend to experiment with lots of ingredients each time I make a recipe so that I can learn how the different ingredients work together. It helps me learn so that I can better formulate new recipes for the blog. So, I never know how the final cream will be affected by the changes.)
Leucidal, for example, has a pretty big working range. I normally don’t need to add an acid when using it. If I remember correctly, when using Rokonsal, I sometimes have to add a couple of drops of lactic acid to certain recipes to keep them in its effective range. I hope that helps! 🙂
Would I be able to use Jojoba Oil in this recipe? I have read it’s good for acne prone/oily skin.
Hi Seanna,
Yes, of course!
Just switch out jojoba oil for one (or part of one) of the other oils in the recipe.
I didn’t use jojoba oil because it has a comedogenic of two, which is higher than the other oils I used.
Most people can use it well without breaking out, including me. That said, it does cause what is known as a “purge” first in some people, meaning that they may break out at first when they begin to use it. Things should eventually clear up, but I didn’t want to use an oil that would make people’s skin break out when they first started using the moisturizer and that would scare them away from using it.
If you tolerate jojoba oil, by all means use it- it’s a great oil! 🙂
Good day,
Do you have any suggestion for dry skin?
Thank you
Hi Nicole,
It’s definitely on my to-do list. I’ve been working on a good one for aging skin, and I want to get a nice moisturizer together for dry skin. Now that my son is back to school, as of last week, I was hoping for more time for getting to those and getting them up on the blog. It’s definitely a priority- we’re in the middle of planning a kitchen reform in October, though, so I haven’t been able to do as much as I hoped so far this year.
I’ll do my best to get to it sooner rather than later!
HI Tracy Ariza,
The acne skin problem can be eliminate ,if you can use hemp oil daily before the taking of shower bath according to the time period after concerning this kind of problem with the skin specialist of skin and also understand the procedure of applying hemp oil on the body of which is helpful to eliminate the acne disease rapidly and protect your skin from the dryness and cracks appeared due to the working in a sunlight ,My suggestion is to go at a clinic of skin specialist one time in a week for the proper treatment of acne skin disease and also discussed the results comming during the treatment of acne disease ,don’t move in the sun light because the light of sun damaged the upper layer of skin ,So please take care of skin .
Thanks.
Thank for sharing this recipe! I have been on the hunt for an acne safe emulsifier and my research was leading me to try the Montanov 68. (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) so I am excited to see a recipe with it specifically for acne prone skin. I am going to give it a try with some other oils that I know work well for me vs. Shea/Argan. Thanks again!
Hi Brie,
I really love Montanov 68. It’s probably my favorite of all of the emulsifiers I have tried, but I don’t use it a lot in my recipes here because I couldn’t find it as easily in the US for some reason. (I was looking for places to link to for readers to be able to find it.)
I actually have a recipe that worked perfectly with Montanov 68 that I still haven’t posted because it doesn’t work well for me using other emulsifiers. I’m glad to see that it’s now showing up more in other countries because I’d really like to use it more often for my recipes here!
I hope the recipe works well for you. I’ve really loved this moisturizer, and need to make more as I just ran out again.
This time I may add some hyaluronic acid or some other aging skin additive. I need to research a bit more before I decide. 🙂
May I ask your ratio for water and oil?
I have extremely oily skin and am trying to make a moisturizing serum with aloe vera gel (water substitute) and oils. I was thinking of about 70% water & 30% oils and just use 9% glycerin to retain moisture.
What would you suggest? What is your ratio? I do not need preservative, because the aloe vera gel has it in the bottle already. I won’t use an emulsifier either, because I can just shake it in amber dropper and it comes out fine.
Hi Julia,
A 70% to 30% should be about right. If you take a look at my basic lotion recipe, I talk a little bit about customizing your own lotions. In a basic lotion, I usually use around 65% water, 30% oil, and the other 5% is made up by emulsifiers, preservatives, and fragrances or other additives.
A lot depends on the final consistency that you are looking for.
I’ve never mixed a commercial aloe gel with oil before. My guess would be that without an emulsifier, you won’t really end up with a solid product that you can use. It will end up separating all of the time. That is, unless, the aloe gel already has some sort of emulsifier in the product, which wouldn’t completely surprise me. I’m not sure if it would be enough to keep the mix together, though. Also keep in mind that although the aloe gel has a preservative in it, the amount used was based on the weight of that product. You are adding oils and not water, so hopefully the combination won’t add much, if any, potential for pathogen growth, but I’m not really sure. To be on the safe side, I’d probably make small batches and not keep it around for too long.
Good luck!
You are right of course! oil and water do not mix unless I shake it vigorously. Then it turns cloudy. I’m currently mixing small batches 15-30ml. I am wondering, if aloe vera gel seems to be a good substitute for water? When I rub Aloe Vera gel (98%) into my skin it seems to leave my pores quicker than grapeseed oil does. I’m confused about this. Hence I wanted to try glycerin to seal the moisture.
Oh and here are the ingredients of my 8oz Aloe Vera gel bottle:
Cold-Pressed Organic Aloe Vera (99.75%), Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan
Hi Julia,
I don’t know enough about it to know for sure how your mix will turn out, or how well it will keep- even with the ingredients. I wish I could be of more help!
Thanks for the recipe. I’m eager to try it but had a couple questions before I begin.
Because of various allergies, the hydrolat isn’t an option. Chamomile hydrolat is the only one I could possibly use and I honestly hate the smell. Can I just use more distilled water, or do it have to be a hydrosol?
And second, can I use coconut oil in place of the shea butter? You mentioned increasing the other oils if there’s a shea butter sensitivity issue, and I can certainly do that, but I love coconut oil and wondered if its inclusion would throw things off.
Thanks again for taking the time to post this!
Hi Jilian,
You’re very welcome. I’m happy to help you out! 🙂
There is no need to add any hydrosols. You can use only distilled water if you prefer. I used the rose water as an experiment in the batch I had made just before posting, and I loved the natural fragrance that it gave the lotion so much that I decided to add it to the recipe. Feel free to switch out for any other hydrosol or just have the whole water component be distilled water- your choice!
As for the oils- yes, you can use coconut oil instead. I didn’t add coconut oil to this recipe because it’s a recipe meant for acne prone skin. Coconut oil is a comedogenic oil (It has a rating of 4!), and causes breakouts for many people. Some people can use it on their faces without any issues, though. So, if it works for you, you can definitely use it instead. I’ve made my homemade lotion with coconut oil many times now, and like it a lot for the rest of my body. I just can’t use it on my face.
Good luck!
Hi tracy am thinking of making a natural lotion with argan,coconut,rosemary & lavender oil.Isnt d oil too mch 4 oily sk
Hi Emdy,
Coconut oil can be problematic for some people. Some people find it works really well on their oily skin. Others find that it makes them break out. The others should be OK.
As long as you keep the proportions the same, you can switch out some of the oils in the recipe, but I’d be careful to try to use a different oil that doesn’t cause breakouts if that’s an issue for you.
I am unable to find Low Oleic Sunflower oil. Would it be ok to use Safflower oil as a substitute?
Hi Alexis,
I was struggling with this issue myself, meaning I spent time trying to figure out which sunflower oil was the best oil to use. I think that I’ve since gathered that “normal” sunflower oil should be OK, and that “high oleic” sunflower oil is marked as such. So, you don’t necessarily have to look for low oleic sunflower oil, but make sure you aren’t using “high oleic sunflower oil.” I should go back and update the post to make it less confusing.
Safflower oil also has a comedogenic rating of zero, but in this case supposedly that is only the “high linoleic” type. I found this brand of safflower oil that specifically mentions that, but I’m not sure if it’s something that is usually on the bottle or not. I’ve never used safflower oil as it isn’t a common oil to find here in Spain.
Can you use measurements in tablespoons, ounces etc?
Hi Shirley.
I used grams because the amounts are so small that grams, a smaller measurement, are the most precise. I also find that people get confused between liquid ounces and regular ounces, so writing in grams prevents confusion for a lot of people.
You can easily toggle the recipe to show up in ounces by changing the units from metric to US imperial. You can find that between the ingredients and the instructions part of the recipe.
In any case, most scales these days will also allow you to switch to either measuring in ounces or grams. I find that very helpful when trying different recipes from different areas of the world.
I hope that helps!
If you have any problems getting it to work, just let me know.
Thanks!
Am the only one though who gets clogged pores from hemp oil?
Hi Inga,
Well, I guess anything is possible. Have you tried using only hemp oil exclusively for awhile to see if it’s really what is aggravating your skin? Are you sure the oil you are using is 100% pure hemp oil?
It is considered a non-pore clogging oil. Other oils with a rating of 1, for example, don’t clog pores for most people, but can for certain people. Some oils can cause bumps/little pimples to form while the skin is regulating it own oils/while your pores purge. Hemp oil, though, has a rating of zero so it’s considered a non-clogging oil, and it isn’t supposed to do that.
I don’t know what to tell you. We all react differently to different ingredients, so even if something is said to not clog pores, I guess that there could be some way that you have some sort of adverse reaction to the oil which, of course, could lead to it clogging them. (And while it’s not the norm, and while I don’t know of anybody else who has had that problem, you probably aren’t the only one. 😉 )
I would suggest that you just switch out the hemp oil for one of the other non-comedogenic oils, and give that a try in this recipe instead. I wish I could be of more help!